Recent content by JeddyS

Yes, I found the following in the manual The thermostat knob can be set to O (OFF}, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 or Max. The graduations 1 to Max. correspond approximately to a temperature range of 55°C to 82°C which are probably graduations of around 5°C. Good to learn it does have over run.

Presumably I can test this. Create demand e.g. 25C for 15mins and then change temperature down to 15C. The boiler will stop immediately, but see if the pump stops at the same time. If it does then that could well be the problem. I have a towel rail with no TRV and currently at least one rad in...

That's interesting, so is the possible scenario that hot water is returning to the boiler, the room reaches temperature so the boiler cuts out and the pump immediately stops. So if the boiler then restarts fairly soon it will heat already hot water and overheat. Although the room with the...

Interesting idea. The room stat is in the lounge, but it's all programmable so I could perhaps change it so instead of e.g. Overnight 15C 8am 18C it becomes overnight 15C 6am 16C 7am 17C 8am 18C

Yes, I was advised when I first got this boiler serviced it was a good model and to just keep it going. But as you say, old and not condensing etc.. The boiler normally makes nothing more than a gentle roar if that makes sense, no unusual noises. The system was half drained last year. We've only...

Actually after my last post I've turned it down to 2 - just to see what happens while we have a cold spell. When I turned it down a bit far to 1 I think the flame did cut out, so hopefully that's all working ok. I wasn't sure if the flame should reduce in height or whether it just burns for...

Does it trip because the water leaving the boiler is too hot or water entering it is too hot? Either way, why doesn't the flame simply cut out and it circulate existing hot water? Thanks

Edit, having reset the trip about 30mins ago and the boiler having been on since I notice one rad is now at about 73C which seems quite hot for 5? But I'd still expect the boiler to stop heating hot water if it is getting back to it too hot! Other rads are mostly <60C.

Wonder if someone can point me in the right direction. Potterton Profile 80E (I think). Lots of rad stats, but towel rail in bathroom doesn't have one. Also have a wiser room stat in lounge but ordinary rad stats which are fully open there, i.e. there are at least a couple of paths for water to...

That sort of thing looks useful - but I'd need it a lot narrower. But no doubt not available as a spare for retrofit.

This perhaps https://elektra.de/en/products/energy-box-with-double-socket/ ? Although I'm not sure if a 2 pin toothbrush plug would fit in it. Possibly a bit big - shame they don't appear to do a single.

Thanks, but I'm not sure the extra 10mm is worth the effort. I'm currently considering going with the FCU with surface mount back box, above the cabinet and a hole in the top of the cabinet for the cable which minimises waste space. Possibly neatest would be to put a hole for the cable to the...

You are right that the toothbrush is too tall to fit in where the shelves are currently (and there are no pre-drilled holes to move the shelf to), however I'm working on the assumption that the brush head will come off and it will then fit. Best check that before I go too far. I did suggest...

Another nice idea, presumably I could then mount the FCU on top of the cabinet (largely out of sight and out of the way) and just have the charger cable coming down through the top of the cabinet.

Yeah a photo is a good idea! Also not having a transformer would be preferable since it's not needed (230V). So if I understand you, buy a shallower 1 gang pattress box (the one in the photo was all I had lying around) and the CMA101 would attach to the front of it, then I can just drill a hole...