Recent content by John Williamson

Thank you. Definately leaning towards compression now. I have the space for a compression fitting so this is the way to go. In terms of what I am trying to achieve, sadly the plumber reversed the flow and return for my UFH manifold so I need to fix this. Once drained if I cut the pipe where...

Thank you. Yes the brass fitting was soldered before the plastic was attached. This is how Buteline solder transitions are made.

I need to desolder and replace this tee. It's very close to the Buteline plastic pipe below (approx 45mm). I have a soldering mat to protect from the flame but worried that the heat will compromise the plastic pipe fitting (Buteline). Is there a safe way to do this or should I consider...

Experiment with 3 G9 bulbs in series. No flickering and I couldn't tell the difference in brightness when using only 1 bulb. Downside will be if one goes out they all go out but saves on having to buy and wire a smart relay.

The bit my brain is struggling with is why this would work with the 36V and not work with 230V. I might be missing something fundamental but would the below not work? There's still only 3 cores (and earth) between the 2 switches. Lamps wired in series with the return to neutral from Lamp 1

Thank you. I have a bunch of Quinetic switches elsewhere. The reason I have ruled these out is that switch 1 is a 3 gang 2 way switch. Using the Quinetic euro modules I'd only be able to get 2 gangs in a single back box. I like the idea of the 12V bulbs but would struggle to fit in a...

Thank you. Too late for that. I guess Lamp 1 will have to be independent

Well at the moment that feed is coming directly from the consumer unit so yes, Live and Neutral

I seem to have confused the hell out of myself so looking for a little advice. I have 2 x 2 way switches. I need to control 3 lamps as seen in the drawing below. I have: 2 core + E feed coming in to Switch 1 3 core + E from Switch 1 to Lamp 1 3 core + E from Switch 1 to Switch 2 3 core + E...

Nice. I also have a bunch of left over 10mm XPS so could make my own thin insulated plasterboard for this purpose using 9.5mm board. u-values a bit naff but better than a sheet of plasterboard directly against blockwork IMO

I think I may be guilty of over thinking things once again.....

Thanks Ivor. I was thinking of something along the lines of this

n the process of converting a garage to living accomodation. I'm replacing the old garage windows which were just about good enough for a shed with some high performance aluminium windows. The block walls will be insulated with insulated plasterboard mechanically fixed on to 25 x 47 battens...

We have a Bosch dishwasher which seems to be emitting steam or condensation from the top. It's delaminating our door units. I've taken out the door seal (3/4 of the door rubber thing) and cleaned thoroughly and it seems in good condition. Does anyone know what could the cause and preferably...

Thank you. Any reason not to just use a tinted wax oil? Would do both jobs at once