Recent content by Johnmdc

As had been suggested the downstairs valve might be stiff and not opening enough to activate the micro switch.

Both grey wires should be in the same terminal connected to permanent live and both orange wires should be in a different terminal connected to the boiler switched live feed which is the other grey wire (not from either valve).

That is correct. It is the hot water off terminal which connects to the grey wire on the 3 port valve terminal 8 and the satisfied on the cylinder stat terminal 7.

You need a wire to connect number 4 on the nest to number 9 in your wiring centre. But you shouldn't be using single insulated wires like you have. You should use a short piece of 3 core flex for the live and neutral and a piece of 4 core for the switch wires.

You need to plug that light blue plug back in that you have removed. Apart from that the nest looks to be wired correctly.

That is the insert it's stuck in the fitting.

Yes it really is that simple.

You need to swap the wire that is in terminal 2 to terminal 1

That all looks correct.

If you're not getting any voltage across the brown and blue wires then the problem is with the controls and not the valve.

No you would have to change the backplate. The connections would all be the same except the black wire in termination 2 would go to terminal 3 on the new Hive backplate.

:p I wasn't sure whether he was swapping the Hive for a Nest or the other way round. I was going to say that if he was swapping the Hive to a Nest then the link should be between L and 2 not 1. But then I changed my mind in case he was doing it the other way round.

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Looking at the wiring diagram on the back of the clock, I would say that the wire that you have in 2 should be in 1.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/talon-15mm-pipe-collar-white-10-pack/19706?ref=SFAppShare