Recent content by Johntheo5

If the low pressure switch on your shower is original then strange that it's different (make) but if Triton spares have confirmed that it is the correct one then probably OK.

A ABV installation is still recommended even if the boiler (like yours?) has a internal one, to cool down the boiler heat exchanger but if there is no banging/noise from the boiler on pump overrun when it shuts down without it, maybe leave it.

That's definitely the way to go, it is possible that the switch is a NO one depending on where its positioned in relation to the pressure operated diaphragm, Triton will certainly know.

Are you sure it matches the part number on the switch you have removed the wires from?? because that certainly doesn't look like a normally closed (NC) switch, the symbols and line diagram clearly IMO shows it to be the NO (normally open) switch used for switching in the heating elements when...

You can first check for air in the coil by ensuring the plastic cap on top of the air vent is slackened off, check after the cylinder heating is finished.

Yes, that's it.

Yes, that's the next logical step. ( Should have said above "if the neon now stays unlit liting with the shower on, then almost 100% certain that the microswitch has failed OR the wrong type, ie, a NO one has been installed, hence the need to read off the details from it')

You have removed one?, check that both elements are on as suggested above, then remove the second wire by prising off the spade/terminal it's attached to, renew switch.

Just both brown wires. Remove enough to remove the switch....I keep asking how many wires are attached to that switch.

I would use the switch as a base to lever up and off the terminal with a flat bladed screwdriver, it will certainly come off. Check (with that one wire removed) that both heating elements are on by feeling the hot water temperature, if so, then almost certain to be a (the) faulty neon pressure...

At least this narrows down the problem now. Just confirm that the pipe with the highlighted valve is the return from the cylinder coil, to be sure to be sure, feel it while the cylinder is being heated, it will/should be cooler (around 15C) than the coil inlet pipe (with zone valve). That valve...

That's well worth investigating if the droning only occurs after/when the HW zone valve closes and stops droning when the circ pump finishes its overrun time, assumes HW heating only on.

A standard 2.5mm ID O ring has, I think, a minimum CS of 0.5mm which gives a OD of, 2.5+(0.5x2), 3.5mm.

If you increased the boiler pressure to 1.5bar while cold and it then fell to 1.0bar then you will have lost a substantial 2.4L. IF "So the pressure swings from 1 bar (boiler turned off) to 1.5/1.6 bar (boiler fired on)." and if that means that the cold pressure is 1.0bar and the hot pressure is...

A ABV normally opens when the (last) zone valve closes to enable the boiler circ pump to overrun and circulate water for a minute or so to cool down the boiler heat exchanger after it shuts down. This gate valve may have been installed on the cylinder heating coil return and throttled in.