Recent content by JPL_Plastering

What you want mate is a product called "Thistle Bond-It" by Brithish Gypsum the only place I have ever bought it is In "Hall & Rogers" but im sure you can order it anywhere its a sort of thick pva solution ready mixed that has a sort of latex feel to it and has small plastic beads in it so when...

Its infra red heat mainly used by car bodyshops as its a very wide spread and even radiant heat but Like I said have a little patience and let it dry on its own mate

its aquiesce69 at the old "Hot male" place if you know what i mean stupid forum rule if you ask me ----------------------------------- Moderator, You can update your e-mail in your profile on here :D

So ??????? why cant it be shown here to? its not illegal or anything?? ---------------------------------------------------------- Moderater, Forum rules :cry:

Q1.) Foundations i dug 600mm deep and then pumped the concrete in up to 300mm (12") incase I ever want to pull of the roof and go up another level :) Q2.) I built up to just below the damp proof in Trench Block and then bought some cheap concrete commons for below ground level to bring it up...

Or just get a bit of British Gypsum Hardwall or Renovation plaster wack it all in in one go and you can sand that aswell quite easily not as easy as the stuff that thermo mentioned but it will be stronger plus you wont get any shrinkage either.

When you meantion 1860's does it have a traditional damp proof? If not then you should be aware that this "old" part of the house needs to breathe to stay dry(ish). If you have had it rendered with modern day mteirials and not done properly and on top of all that then gone and sealed it with a...

I have just started a similar project myself and I am doing it all myself but got a brickie to throw up the walls coz of time I know its not a direct comparison as I live in Manchester still not dheap tho!!! Anyway I hope this can give some idea of cost my building is single storey with a...

Pixie I was bonding over artex 12 years ago and ppl said I was mad!!! but thats the way to do it however the one place your going wrong mate is in using "Multi Finish" multi will always tend to peel on bonding. You need to get yourself some good old fashion "Carlite Thistle Finish" if you can...

You shouldnt be drying it out anyway you should just wait for it to dry naturally so you dont get any shrinkage at all the slower it dries the better unless you really are in a rush in which case you should leave it all for about 3 or so days then just put the dehumidifier on but no heat....

Generally you dont use TE Bords on celings they are for taping and jointing walls really some yanks do it and canadians however they are usually also boarding the walls so thats how they get around it teh celing is done first and then the edges that a a little shy are hidden with the wall...

Pretty much as he says mate you dont need to PVA Plasterboard apart from aquapanels but i dont even PVA them sometimes ;) Also another thing I meant to say in my original post was for you ppl who are struggling to get a mix used before its gone off I would suggest not using a spot board at all...

If you are plastering on a dry background then always wet it down to slow drying time and improve workability, also if your are skimming on to old masonry then always apply a coat of watered down PVA and if you are really slow let that go tacky and give it another coat of slightly stronger PVA...