Recent content by Juno 60

:idea: Good tip - beats taking a drill bit to the bolt.

:) Thanks for your advice chaps. I'll remove the old mastic and generally clean up the joints, then paint Flexacril over the affected area. I'll also have a crack at replacing the bolts, though I imagine the existing ones will be a bugger to shift :x

The asbestos cement gutters on my bungalow are leaking at the section joints. The gutters are otherwise sound and I don't really want to go through the trouble and cost of replacing them. A tailor-made liner would be ideal but is also too costly for me at the present time. Any advice on...

Spicken der Deutsche? :wink: Good idea nstreet, although I might send the German manufacturers an email first. Thanks to both of you for advice.

The packaging said the flooring was suitable for kitchens. The only reason I am now concerned is that my friend laid a click laminate floor (different manufacturer) in his kitchen, and the supplier recommended that, as the floor was being laid in a high moisture area, he apply a special sealant...

I have just laid tile-effect click laminate flooring in my kitchen and very nice it looks too. However, I didn't think to add sealant to the interlocking bits (there was nothing in the instructions about this) - do you think the joints between panels will be sufficient to resist damaging water...

Cheers for reply Masona. The 2 holes that I can see in the broken pointing are about half an inch wide and look pretty uniform - could well be related to scaffolding. The sealing around the window looks good. I agree that it's a good idea to repoint the affected area whether its the...

There is water ingress at the lintel above my lounge window. The affected area is only damp after particularly heavy driving rain, but obviously remains stained when dry. The window is an Anglia-fitted UPVC unit fitted in 2000, so I'm pretty sure it's not a problem with the window seal. I have...

I would connect your shower to a seperate dedicated CU (get a shower CU from Screwfix) which has its own RCD and 45A or 50A MCB. Split the supply to your existing CU and the new shower CU using a Henley block.

I would connect your shower to a seperate dedicated CU (get a shower CU from Screwfix) which has its own RCD and 45A or 50A MCB. Split the supply to your existing CU and the new shower CU using a Henley block.

Well, yeah, but...:wink: I fitted a dedicated shower CU for my 9.5kW using exactly the process described by Plugwash. All hunky dory so far, no trips and no discernible voltage drop when I fire it up.

I recommend you buy a dedicated shower CU and split the supply to your existing CU and the new one, using a Henley block. Screwfix do a good dedicated shower CU; this comes with a 45 or 50A MCB and RCD.

That would be ideal for their systems. I think they've learned to live with the fluctuations though.

Feeding a shower direct from the combi boiler has distinct advantages as mentioned above, but some combi boilers really struggle to feed showers with hot water at a constant temp. Both my sister's and girlfriend's combi boiler-fed showers go from pleasantly warm to cold and back again all the...

My sister had the local electricity board come in to fit an electric shower and was charged £600 for the whole job (labour and materials). Their modern consumer unit had a spare slot for the shower circuit; assume the EB would have charged a further £100-200 to fit a new consumer unit if...