Recent content by k13wjd

Yeah, current setup is indeed on its way out, flue is toast and failed it's last inspection, original boiler, engineer isolated it, and I think the room ventilation now needs to be brought up to regs for it to be reinstated as is. It's done well to last this long in fairness, I bet a modern...

I should have explained better - Part of the reasoning for the 30kw is that it was the first Worcester Bosch boiler that would allow the flue length I need, which is rediculously long. The smaller models output wise were limited to shorter flue lengths. This house is upside down, boiler is on...

It is a big house, no question about that. There are some huge spaces to heat, and like only a quarter of the roof pitch can be insulated, the rest is vaulted. I'm saying it's 0.75bar if head pressure feeding the DHW side, based on the height of the cold tank. The power shower pump is probably...

15 I think. Varying in size from small bathroom/airing cupboard size, so some of the longest doubles I've seen. Like 3m long, but 30cm tall..... It's a big house which isn't particularly energy efficient simply by design, with little option for upgrading relevant insulation. I'll try and get...

It's a 35ish year old ideal Mexico heat only. Likely putting in a Worcester Bosch 8000 system. Relocated as the flue run is absolutely nuts in the old system. Walls put in after the boiler at a guess!

Simple question really, will removing my power shower result in better or worse performance, boiler/hw tank changes below Old setup : 24kw floor standing heat only boiler, vented HW tank bed by cold tank, around .75 bar head. Power shower has it's own 15mm output from the HW tank, and it's own...

So it's not a chimney as such, it's a 5(ish) inch galv steel pipe, boxed inside plasterboard etc. Thinking more about it, there is an air brick under the floor level right under the flue outside. Once I remove the fire and hearth, I'll maybe look and see if I can vent it via that air brick...

Morning folks, I'm just about to remove a Flavel gas fire - had a gas safe engineer come out last week and disconnect/cap the gas supply, so it's now isolated. The flue basically comes out the back of the fire and goes straight up 3.5m through the roof, rain guard etc fitted. My initial plan...

I have no idea how I came up with that. must have been a copy/paste. Its Jesperson concrete. The 5m's are steel framed, this is most certainly concrete, floors, walls and roof.

Hey chaps. Hope you are all safe! I own a 1950's(ish) pre-fab concrete house, with a flat roof. Appears to be Jesperson block type Flat roof, last replaced around 15 years ago. During October, a leak developed, with water coming through the joint in the concrete panel ceiling/roof. I went up...

if he's doing something that needs a tight fit, then he might a tight fit as a seal. I've used copper into alloy blocks for engine builds, and indeed into brass for turbos. I normally drill them on the small size,then freeze the copper, and tap it in with a soft drift. you'll be better of...

They, iirc, have a small house with a Filter on it, so you put the pipe into the barrel.

all pressure washers work from a water butt. you just need a small pump to gain around 3 bar to feed the pressure washer :-) i think all new karchers machines work from a butt failing that, move up here to scotland. I washed my fence today. ha ha ha

drill a 14mm hole. Reem the rest out until the pipe fits. Simples.

if its just one, Epoxy resin is the answer :-)