Recent content by KentExpert

As Foxhole mentioned, annular ring shank are good. Just make sure they are galvanised and good quality. If it is a well treated fence or timber that has a long guarantee, it will be expensive but I would suggest going stainless steel. 1. You will 100% not get any rust marks down the fence...

Sorry, a little late now. It will do the job, look for adjustable hook and band hinges if you have not already purchased. That way if it moves more then you adjust the hinge rather than a bigger job.

If you can't get a car Jack and a chain around it then I would dig around it and smash away at with under ground level with a sledge hammer or angle grind it off or even go at it with an SDS drill. It may have metal reinforcing rods, so watch out for these. The only problem with smashing them...

100%. Been there done that. Just go for a fence with a long guarantee that requires no painting or staining.

Unfortunately I don't think you have much choice. It is actually pretty common for the post to be higher than the wall. Just check the walls are strong enough to support the wall plates. Use this image if you need to explain it to the customer.

Toddlers grow up quickly, and before long they will be kicking a football against it or hanging covers from it to make a den. I'm talking from experience. It may also be worth choosing pre built picket fence panels with slotted posts. This gives more consistent spacing than doing it yourself...

The above makes sense. May be worth making the posts slotted as the panel would then be held more secure in place. Also, just be careful that the 3ft wall can handle the extra weight of a fence panel. The last thing you want if the extra force on the wall and for it to pull it over.

We used outdoor adhesive (Soudal) to attach timber to the posts. Its been a couple of years now and still strong. Identical to step 6 in this blog

This is the best option. It may be difficult to get a saw in there, so a multi tool if you have one. If not, drill a number of small holes and then use a wood chisel to cut the rail.

Some Local Authorities are funny about fence height out the front of a property even if not adjacent to a highway. It will be worth checking with them that you can install a boundary over 1m. In theory it will be fine to the point where the property next door ends.

What style of fence does it need to be? If it is Closeboard/Featherboard (most common type) it is easy. As others have said. Measure the new width and gently wiggle off the pales until that width and you can see the rails. Then cut the rails to the width and reattach any pales where there...

Just remember to get slightly longer posts if the slope is reasonable. Also, make sure there is no panels flapping around and that the posts support the panels and then step down. Depending on the gradient you may need to use two gravel boards on top of each other. Otherwise the panels will...

Easy options..... If the hinge pins allow it by being tall enough, you can add metal washers to them. This will raise the gate slightly and prevent it from rubbing. You could use a multi tool to remove a small amount from the bottom areas of the stile that are catching. Remove and refit the...

If the timber is only showing early signs of softness, then painting or staining the gate will certainly help protect it and slow things down. It will seal the surface, keep moisture out, and give the timber a better chance of lasting a few more years. If the rot has already set in and has gone...

Depending on the height of the post on the left, you may be able to install a lintel (a piece of wood above the gate). Force it in and it may push the wall plate right against the wall and force the post away from the gate allowing the gate to close. Then in the summer, plane the timber down on...