Recent content by laurieg

Cheers, I will have a look around for one.

Thanks for that. How does this effect the programmer on the boiler? The is situated upstairs. Unfortunately, we did not think of the this situation when it was installed so have to keep on going up stairs to override the timer.

At the present my Wocester Combi boiler has a standard set of controls on it. My house has a standard BG thermostsat in the hall. If we wish to advance the setting to get the boiler on out of the set times we currently have to go up to the boiler to do this. Can I get the standard...

Just recently after we flush the WC and the cistern has filled, (press button type), we get a loud fast vibration in the pipes which lasts for about 5 seconds. This also happens occasionly after we run the cold taps for a while. (No affect with the hot taps). We have not had any work done on...

I don't think my bank manager is going to like me :roll:

I have had a problem with my lighting circuit recently and the electrician told us that the house, (1950s), was not not earthed in the lighting circuit. He explained that this was not unusual with this age of house and that the wiring was all correct in every other way. He said that the main...

They were running a report about a company called Powersave and the company that fits for them, Energen. Substand workmanship etc. The independent Engineer Watchdog used reported that the pipes should be of a flexible type, but he did not qualify what he meant. Have a look here...

The boiler is a Worcester 28CDi. There are 5 copper pipes from/to it out of the bottom. If the pressure drops below 1 there is a tap which we can fit to a point underneath to top it up, (we have not had to do that since it was fitted last December). There is no braided pipe.

I have just seen a program on TV where an 'expert' said that pipe from a boiler should be of the flexible type and easily disconnected. I have had a combi boiler fitted by British Gas with solid copper pipes. Could anyone tell me which is correct. (The program was Watchdog). Many thanks

Wow, I really did kick something off here, didn't I :) Apart from the ignorant comments by two of you, I have learnt a lot from you guys. This is what the forum should be about. Letting people know the correct info but warning about problems in DIY. Don't slag us off as thickies...

I can't do that. The cable from the CU went into a JB just where it came out of the cavity in the loft. It is too far from where I want to put the switch. My intention was to run the new cable from the JB onwards but htis is all imaterial if I cannot get a 45A JB :(

Thanks guys Your right on the JB. What is the point in selling showers and cabling etc to install it if you can't fit the correct components. Anyway, you have convinced me to go for the 10mm2 cable but I think it better to get one of you types to run the cable in from the CU, (not done...

The cable will run, clipped in a conduit, along a beam in the loft to the RCD and switch. It will then drop down into the bathroom in a conduit clipped to the wall. It will not be bundled with any other cabling. If there is one thing my loft is not, is warm :wink:

Many thanks Plugwash. I stand corrected and shall hot foot it in the direction of my local B&Q. I have a 45 A switch for the circuit so why I did not get a similar junction box escapes me :oops:

Adam, apart from sarcasm being the lowest form of wit perhaps you can answer the question that I put in my last post ie. Is there any reason why I cannot, or should not, use a junction box, (at the correct rating)?