Recent content by lbzbean

They use smoke machines to find holes in leaky cars - if you have a decent hole you should be able to rig something up.

I've had similar problems where the TRV is mounted vertically and the radiator is marginal. Remote sensing TRV head is what you need. If you have plenty of rad for the room this seems to be much less of an issue.

Sounds possible, intuitively I feel the difference would be fairly small, maybe multiple the area by 1.33 or something. Put 25mm (or more) PIR board around all the surfaces and you'd be toasty.

What percentage of the outside surface area is the roof? This is the maximum effect you hope to have even if you put in 100% effective insulation (such a thing doesn't exist). 20% ?

The MF100T is 245 m3/hr Mine is really powerful, you can feel the draught under the bathroom door on the back of your feet.

I have one of these and it pushes a LOT of air through an 8m flexi duct (couldn't be any worse conditions), I take it you connected the high speed. If you disconnect the extract end of the duct from the outside, how much air appears to be coming out?

Could it be that in a lot of old houses the lack of insulation kept the bricks nice and dry and now with extra insulation the bricks get wet and frost damaged?

I just fitted a Manrose MF100T running through about 5m of duct, works great.

I wonder if you could find a used MHRV on eBay or something, that would give you ventilation without loosing your heat?

Does it coincide with rain or cold? Just trying to rule out a condensation problem.

Using my thermal imaging camera i can clearly see the improvement that i made when i removed the trim and used expanding foam on my double glazing.

Those windows look identical to the ones in my house. If you do find out who made them, i'd be interested to know.

What is the temperature in the hallway? What is the temperature of the condensing part of the doorstep? Just trying to see how much below the dew point it is, then we could see how much of a problem you've got.