Recent content by LKO

offending part not clear but could be pcb or fan.... i understand fan is not diy...what about pcb ?

Got a similar issue... can somebody help in diagonosis //www.diynot.com/diy/threads/heating-not-working-help-required-to-diagnose.454395/page-3

Seems good days are not back yet. The Glowworm Ultimate 80FF refused to fire since yesterday afternoon. Tried to understand the manual and other threads but not sure whether to root out the electrics or not. The pilot light is continuously on. There is no sparks or fan switching on. I couldnt...

Yes I did finally on the weekend. Couldnt have done it without the help on this forum. And the explaination above on how to be a better and not needy customer makes sense and will sure come in handy next time. Luckily the actual valve seemed ok so could do with the motor head only. I didnt...

Thanks Tony.... Hooting owl...does £135 mean including parts ? So I was right in trying to save money and not go with the £220 quote...

Thanks for your vote of confidence. I will give it one more try before going in myself...

The £220 I mention is for labour only excluding parts. Do let me know if you consider it a fair quote for the job when only CH problem is being fixed (without any stop valves or TRV work added).

If the draining down is going to happen, I was looking for getting some shut-off valves fitting in the cold and hot water supply - currently there is no way to stop apart from the main stopcock outside on road, and some TRVs on radiators. This was decided last time I had a plumbing emergency...

thanks again... i will try to get both Honeywell and Drayton in advance Depending if the plumber/electrician decides to show up today take action ... with priority for Honeywell if not will try the drayton for the moment between today and tomorrow... Regards Drayton Is this one ruled out ? or...

Tested the electrics by removing the white connector and going direct... some changes in readings ... let me know if its makes situation more clear... Before attempting actuator change, should i verify CONTROL PROGRAMMER output in anyway as well or does this all point still to faulty actuator ...

Havent been able to check the electrics ...going to do that today... Meanwhile was searching the shops for the replacement but confused as there are so many out there.... not sure whats the difference after I narrow down to 3 port and 22mm (measured the pipe diameter)... Couldnt check City...

I observed voltage fluctuating between the 240 and 1000V (multimeter range was set as 750 first so I reset to higher but still got the same fluctation). Given all the other readings of 240 were constant, I thought this was due to faulty connection/wiring only rather than a fault with multimeter...

Thanks Husky for the detail. Following are the voltages in the junction box in RED. Does this mean there is a short somewhere or error/losse connection I couldnt verify. The wires going in the junction box appear good and firm. Tried to open the white connector going to actuator but nut is...

I got a multimeter. What should be I be looking for ? Just voltage/live coming on. I have been trying to open the 3 port valve box on top but not sure how to open the blue covering ... could you explain photo attached... the valve gets stuck on the right as it showsDSC_0032 by LKO posted 29...