Recent content by Luke watson

Thanks so much.

@jj4091, other than the 24V DC voltage, it has its speed (15mm/s), temperature limits (-10 to +60C), IP rating (IP32), push/pull force (600N) and rated current (1.5A). @pete01, using the nearest plug socket would be considerably easier than going from the light switch in terms of...

Hi, I have a 24V motor to open and close a skylight, with a 220V control switch. I can wire it all up to work with a plug from a socket, but the control switch (bottom photo) is designed to be recessed into a wall. Should the power come from a plug socket or a light switch (light switch...

Amazing, thank you so much for all your help (and others) - hugely appreciated. (y)

Thank you so much. I have wired up as you said (see below) and it all seems to be working. Can you confirm this is what you meant about isolating in a separate terminal block, and would you consider this safely done? They wouldn't fit in the area labelled terminal block, so the two wires are...

Thank you, you're absolutely right - I hadn't realised the power came through that wiring too. I can easily add the Netatmo wires into the block, and presumably I then need to remove the old stat or disable it. Here are a couple of photos, one showing the power and the stat, the second showing...

Hi, I am hoping to replace an old thermostat with a Netatmo one, by attaching the four wires from the Netatmo into the Potterton boiler Terminal Block following the Netatmo guide (also here: ). The boiler is a Potterton Promax Combi HE Plus. It looks pretty straightforward except that the...

Indeed, thay seems to be the case. I have installed the Mcalpine, but you're right, it hasn't done much to the height difference. At least the pipes are clean for the time being (they were very gunked up), but the waste pipe will need lowering in due course. I'm surprised there isn't a trap...

Thanks everyone, hugely helpful. I bought a McAlpine kit this afternoon so will look to clean it up over the weekend. oldbutnotdead, the pipe in the top left of the pic is coming from the half bowl of the one and a half bowl sink. PS I don't think it was a DIY job, but I might be wrong.

Hi, I've just moved onto a new place and the wager drainage is very slow. Underneath the sink, it looks like the water has to push a lot of water above it to get out. It goes down from the sink, then into a u bend before going upwards through a flexible pipe to the outside. Is this too far to...

Yes, I wondered the same. I binned it so can't check I'm afraid. I couldn't see an obvious bulge back then, but it had tripped the electrics and was very old, and given the rest of the oven worked, I figured it was the element itself, but may have just been the wiring.

You caught me just in time! What is the problem with the insulated ones? I shall get some non insulated ones and replace the others too as all looking a bit ropey.

Thanks for the quick reply. So if I take the wire further back to the undamaged section, you think that will be okay and it may just have been due to old wire/connector? Thanks

Hi, A few weeks ago our oven element broke, so I replaced it, which was a simple enough job. However, it didn't last and one of the wires seems to have caught fire (see photo). I am hoping this is an easy fix, but I don't know why this may have happened, and would rather not buy a new oven...

I never did take a photo...many apologies, but thanks again for all your help. Luke