One radiator in the system should not have a TRV fitted. It's usually the one in the hallway which is the coldest part of your house. It's also the place you fit your programmer stat. The stat controls the heat demand by reading the room temp. If you had a TRV fitted they would constantly fight...
Flow and pressure are two different things. Incoming mains would be reduced to 3bar going into the boiler so your hot water would not be affected too much. 2.7 bar is not bad for your demand. How did you confirm the incoming pressure? Check the pressure with a running outlet.
The 80-90 degrees is the boilers temperature, not the HW temperature at the taps. That sudden increase in temperature indicates a blockage in your plate heat exchanger and the boiler is overheating. I wouldn't advise a DIY repair, get someone competent in. For the price replacing it is better...
Normal 6mm red plug will do fine, the tiles will hold the radiator which is not very big. Those radiators have long brackets which distribute the weight better and have like 6 fixings (3 on each bracket). Make sure your screws are not too thick so you don't crack the tiles.
Water from the condensate does not come from your sealed central heating system, therefore it would not drop your systems pressure.
Stupid question, the water you're collecting, is it coming from a plastic pipe or copper pipe?
A boiler loosing pressure that quickly is either PRV, expansion...
**** HEP STOP COCKS! I had one snap on me on mains pressure, the stopcock in the road nowhere to be found. I plugged the leak for 4 hours until a solution was found, soaking wet. I'm not touching one of those ever again, it snapped with barely any pressure.
Could it be your boiler is being fed from the tank? Isolate the tank then run your kitchen hot tap. Or if you have an isolation on the hot supply from the cylinder or the cold supply feeding the cylinder, you can use that too.
Kitchen tap is a mixer tap, when open in the mid position it's...