Recent content by Markarina

Yes A & B wires were connected, B is connected to what I am calling the switch wire, the live from the thermostat to the boiler. For reference I have a link from the second L terminal to the A terminal. I'll tape up the switch wire and give it another go over the weekend

okay so put the relay box back on the wall (without the fly lead) when I put it into troubleshoot mode same thing happened relay clicks a couple of times but fails to latch. I'm slightly wary of using the fly lead as I'm slightly wary of having h two live wires not connected and floating around...

okay done that - checked the binding first which was all ok, then raised the set point nothing happened, so I then put it into troubleshoot mode which puts the relay on for 5 minutes this worked fine. So then went back to manual mode and it worked as expected raise the set point relay comes on...

Yeah it's brand new and bought from Plumb Nation. Checked the binding by putting the display unit into test mode and the relay unit dutifully flashed every 6 seconds per the installation manual. I guess this is a good time to point out this is the second unit I have tried, the first one was a...

Pretty sure that this isn't the problem as the unit I am replacing is a very old chronotherm which as a built in analogue clock unit visible to the user and also seems to have a second non visible to the user timer unit, so the current unit must have a permanent live as it does not have any...

I'm trying to replace an old Honeywell chrontherm room thermostat, with a CM927. You move the set point levers on the old thermostat and the boiler fires up and the pump starts and the radiators get warm - perfect. The old thermostat has 4 wires, brown (live?) blue (neutral?) black(switch)...