Recent content by mibazza

Ok, sounds like it should be fine. I've got the worst case option of increasing the break tank size in my outbuilding as long as its same footprint, just means I'd loose a couple of storage shelfs above, not a major deal breaker.

How much water would I use from my break tank then for reasonable flow rated mixer shower for 10min shower? I'm trying to work out now if my 250l break tank is big enough to allow 2 people to shower for 10 mins. I think my electric shower is about 3.5lpm, so I'd assume about 8-10lpm from the...

Hi, I have an old heating system that consists of an Ideal Mexico Super 480FF boiler which has gravity hot water to a regular insulated copper cylinder. 11 radiators with one grundfoss pump. Honeywell Evohome TRV's on all radiators and a control valve connected to the return line of the hot...

550mm height from horizontal vent takeoff on flange to bottom of tank as per your diagram. 950mm takeoff to water level in header tank. No room in cupboard to move the tank higher and flat roof, so thats all there is. Hadn't seen a diagram with that dimension on it, that explains a bit. So...

Hi all, I've fitted a Salamader RP120SU hot water booster. And its sucking air/water from the vent pipe. Any suggestions how I can fix this? I've extended the vent pipe into the header tank so that it ends about 2/3 down into the tank water, this is just to allow me to run the pump without...

Hmmm not really although that would.be good, the pipes will pass the chimney breast which is hard to the stud wall and its insulation so I wouldn't get insulation on the pipes.

The pipes will be running perpemdicular to the joists so I have to take up a fair few, some of them are a bit soft aswell, looks like they've had some water damage at some point over the years, I'd like to replace them all but all the walls are nailed to them.

You can see the stud wall built over the floorboards in the photos below, in one of them you can see the joist below the foot plate clearly not over the joist.

My bedroom stud wall is built onto the overhang of the floorboards after the joist below. So my joist runs parallel to the stud wall, but the stud wall is built about 100mm after the joist toward the stone outside wall so that the stud wall is just sitting on the ends of the floorboard which...

We've had the house for several years and have used the log burner on and off. But its not used much and I actually think we lose more heat from the fireplace than we gain with the few times we use it. The stonework and register plate are always way colder than the room, so we're losing heat.

Ok cheers, I'll have a look when I'm home and remove the register plate if I can and see what I have. Our bedroom is above the same wall and I often hear stuff crumbling and falling down inside the wall/breast. Its pretty disconcerting so I'd like a look in there to see whats going on, house...

When you say the flue liner connected to the wood burner, you mean the black pipe? See pic. I don't there is a liner? If there is its only above the register plate, theres only the black stove pipe comes through the register plate. I'll have a look for angles drilled into stonework but I don't...

Already got the 65" TV, viewing distance will be almost same and its fine at the moment.

If I remove the register plate will the chimney breast not be filled with vermiculite or will there be a liner around the flue pipe filled with vermiculite? Either way when I remove the plate will I not get a load of vermiculite falling out? And if theres no existing ventilation in the chimney...

The register plate doesn't have an inspection plate, its just a steel regsiter plate covering whole of inside of chimney breast with flue pipe coming through the middle of it. Not sure if plasterboard around fireplace is insulated, I guess I'll find out. The wall is going to have a long low...