Recent content by MidAtlantian

Alastairreid wrote: "There should be 100mm rigid insulation between the rafters, 50mm airgap 40mm overdraw, vcl then your plasterboard." Yes, I know. That would be an almost "beyond hope" improvement,. But that would mean taking a stone roof off, or taking all of the plasterboard...

Hi Alastair, Thanks for your input. I had hoped that because there was so much air movement, that condensation would not be a problem, especially as I will be stopping the huge influx of warm moister air from the passageway below it: by replacing the downlights with surface lights...

Hi Shane, Thanks for your reassurance. But! Could you please be more detailed so that I can understand what is going on? Is that "fine" because there is so much air movement? Or because the water does not really pool above batons? Or because water does not drain that way...

Hi, I was getting a lot of air going up alongside downlights in the ceiling of a converted loft space, so decided to replace them with surface lights. When I removed the downlights, I found a HUGE area - say a 2 foot radius - without any insulation at all, ceiling to roof, and quite a...

Thanks for your response. If there were a blockage caused by the toilet, wouldn't that obstruct the flushing action? That works fine. And taking apart the soil pipe connections means removing at least part of the wall to the eaves - along with the large stone tiles that cover he wall: which...

Thanks, That is a technique I have not come across, but it t does make sense. You would not expect to need as much force pulling back as you would need punching though a blockage. But I think I need to wait until it is well blocked before I do this, and that could take some time, and even...

I have removed the trap - it was perfectly clear - and run a snake down for 6 metres, encountering no obstacles at all (except for getting around the bends.) I put acid down, and the sink clears to a very good, fast flow, but slows to a very slow flow after: from a few days to a few weeks...

Chri5, Thanks. Yes this is NOT to boil water: it is to have hot water to wash hands, paint brushes, and get hot water to mop the floor. Back to back sounds interesting, but apart from the drawers next to the sink, I'd be concerned that in an emergency, one might not think to look in...

Hi bernardgreen, While I can see your point, I wonder if then I need to consider access if the unit bursts into flames and I cannot enter the room! Especially since the consumer unit itself is in the same room! If I can still enter the room, there would be the option that I turn it off...

Chri5, Thanks for your response. I'd seen comments that the switch had to be "above the work surface". Yes, I will mount it high on the side of the cupboard. There isn't exactly a 'tank' with an instantaneous heater. And there is plenty of room under the sink for the heater, pipes, etc...

Hi, I am installing an "instantaneous" undersink water heater in a utility room, and will run a separate cable from the consumer unit. I know I need to have a double pole switch to turn it off, and that the switch must be within 2 meters of the heater. But there are natural stone tiles...

Hi, I need to run a new ring main (2.5mm) and a single spur, also 2.5 mm. Can I place all three cables in one channel I cut into the stone walls for the "main run"? They will run a few inches from the ceiling, and I may cap them pro forma. I will cover them with plaster. Also, do I need...