Recent content by mikebakke

Thanks, I suspected that may be the answer. I've had another brief look up there (don't want to spend real time there till I have a mask and gloves) and it's actually 2 layers of 4-4.5in fibreglass. The joists appear about 4 inches so I will have a look at relative costs for the 3x1 and 2x2.

Grateful for any advice: I am going to lay some mdf boards I have in my loft. Based on reading so far I'm either going to re-route wiring whch is over the joists or cross-lay 3x1 first. There is very thick fibreglass insulation laid throughout which stands well proud of the joists. My...

Not sure I understand this? I can't see 10 or 16 on any of the controls? The timers a standard off/cont/programme type with independent for CH/HW

Not sure what the correct term is. There is no gauge on the boiler, and (I believe) a small header? tank in the loft. I'm assuming it's sealed, not pressurised?

The Honeywell valve does work - I can just never see it because the room stat is upstairs so by the time I get down it's done it. The Honeywell is controlled by the room stat. When the stat is off the lever is over to the left and if I push right springs back slowly like it has a flywheel...

As far as I can see (the installation is incedibly cramped with half the pipework inaccessible), I have 2 seperate valves - not a Y type arrangement. The tank stat directly controls one of them ie, when that clicks on or off the valve opens or closes. As I write this I do start to wonder if...

I "know" I'm right of course, but after being told "it's fine now" several times I started to doubt myself. Thanks gents - toys away!

I've done a lot of research on web sites and forums, but I want to be absolutlely sure I've understood before throwing my toys out with my builders... I have a new build with an ICOS condensing boiler and independent timer controls for HW and CH. 1st 5 months just used hot water - all ok...