Recent content by mikehammer69

To convert his fitting then you would remove electronic ballast and wire the ends in series Either way lamp is fitted there’s no short circuit Is the starter actually a fuse or a solid link If it’s a fuse it’s going to be required which means you can’t safely convert it there

One of issues with them was old or dirty covers in sheds especially Even with a clean you’re still losing light compared to new fittings

The gangs will still compete with the legal outlets for market share They’ll have a cheaper stronger product

Ya he has T8 and electronic ballast by the look of it so not compatible as is Now that you mention it I think there was a few setups with these gadgets

What you bought is probably for magnetic ballast and starter type fitting I think new starter and one end of new lamp are solid links to provide 230v at one end to power new led lamp Think the electronic ballast type fitting you probably have needs the internals ripping out to manually supply...

You have to match and setup correctly and from memory there’s differences in them They are another electrical gadgetry that manufacturers keep pumping out Best option is usually new led fitting

The concern is if users decide not to turn on the main light

Doh ya I forgot mine was shower only Needs to be automated anyway not manual control, manual switches can be left off I think I’d be leaning towards PIR suggestion

3amp fusing if I recall

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those are a great snips too esp in tight spaces

I automated mine so it comes on when shower heater tank draws current Easy done if fan is wired from box.

A job that doesnt need doing Probably end up with something tripping after it

A few items very cheap others normal pricing Then theres some of the delivery costs Looks like swings and roundabouts

If it's all cavity you can fish it through Fish a thinner wire through firstt then attach grey If not it's probably surface work