Recent content by Mindzai

Yep that looks like it. For that price I won't even bother trying to fix it, I'll just get a replacement. Thanks.

No problem. After removing the handle and bottom trim and popping the mechanism out: The mechanism with the attached left bar - right side not attached! Close up of the mechanism: Close up of how the left bar is attached: Close up of how the right bar is not...

I have a uPVC double glazed window, hinged at the top, which is locked shut on the bottom right corner. The left side seems able to open. I put the handle in the unlocked position and took it off, then I was able to pry the window to the left enough to free up the stuck side allowing me to...

Thanks - I think I may get the X800 and do as you suggest, then get the X400 and leave it in for a few weeks just to be sure. Not sure how I would add it to the boiler though - can I add to a radiator instead through a bleed valve adapter? That's how I've added inhibitor in the past - drained...

Doesn't look like I can get powerflush from anywhere near me, is Sentinal X400 any good instead? I can get that from screwfix round the corner so saves waiting for a delivery from an online shop.

OK I'll do that, thanks for all the help.

Right I'll look into that, cheers. Turned it to just above min and turned the hot tap on. I ran it for a couple of minutes and it didn't bang. Then while it was still running I turned it up to about 3/4 and as soon as I did it started banging again. I turned it back down and the banging stopped.

As far as I could tell, the banging did not seem to be coming from the pump - that was purring away quite smoothly. It seemed to be coming more from the top chamber of the boiler where the flame is or towards the back. It's pretty violent banging, the whole boiler jolts and the pressure gauge...

Right turned the hot tap on the morning and we're back to *lots* of very loud banging coming from the boiler. :( I got my girlfriend to run the hot tap and check the temp of the water while I watched the red LED on the hall effect sensor. Even while the temperature fluctuates the LED remains...

Like I said in my original post :P, I measured the flow rate from the hot tap at 5.5 lpm. The flow rate from the cold is much higher. I know the LED you mean, I will check that in the morning and report back. Thanks again for the help.

I'll take some pics tomorrow and post them. Yes sorry it also has a gas pipe in the middle, and 4 water pipes, two to the left and two to the right :oops: The far right pipe (which the filter was in) is, according to the manual, "heating return", and the one to the left is the "cold water...

Underneath the boiler I've got 4 main pipes that go up into the boiler. The two on the right have a loop of flexible pipe (like a flexible tap connector) going between them. These two pipes each have a stop valve and I closed both of them. Then I disconnected the loop from the far right pipe...

I use it whenever I have a screw thread in a plumbing joint, compression or not, and I've never had a leak caused by it. But then I'm not a plumber!

The cold water inlet filter is the one I took out and checked - like I say totally clear. The only other filter mentioned in the manual is "Flow Sensor with Filter & Regulator" which I haven't checked. Should I have a go at getting this one out too? Incidentally I ran the heating and hot tap...

OK thanks. How would I go about getting rid of the air? Re the pressure, the mains cold water seems pretty high pressure judging by how it comes out of the taps, it exceeds 10 l/m easily.