Recent content by Mister Banks

You need an auto bypass valve. It’s standard practice on s-plan so goodness knows why the cylinder installation didn’t include one.

Check the pipe that goes to the outside.

Have you checked for a dribble from the PRV?

Also check for an ABV which in my case is close to the HW cylinder. Make sure the ABV isnt passing water straight back to the boiler.

How will you stop the unheated rooms from sucking the heat out of the heated rooms? This is something that people tend to forget about and then wonder why the heating is on more often than expected, the few "on" heat sources are trying to heat the whole house.

The upstairs zone valve switched live should be fed from the upstairs thermostat so should only be open if the upstairs thermostat is calling for heat. Even with a permanent live feeding the thermostat as long as there is no call for heat the zone valve should be closed.

Eufy cameras get decent reviews, I am thinking of swapping my Ring cameras for Eufy.

Good point, I forgot about the return :eek:

Presumably in this weather you are only heating the HWC therefore the radiators are isolated at the motorised valve. This suggests that the "leak" is somewhere in the boiler or the hot water circuit.

The Wiser zigbee is proprietary.

Are you on an s plan or y plan?

When I had my WB system boiler installed the installer fitted a Honeywell DU145. To set it up all he did was shut the ABV off fully and with both motorised valves closed adjusted the ABV until he felt heat on the return pipe connection.

You’re the only person that thinks it’s wrong though.

I think you’re letting this get overly complicated. Don’t worry about the 20c drop across a radiator as no one gets that anymore. Are you using TRV’s on the radiators, if so that messes up the radiator temp drop as well so just ensure the radiators are balanced and let the TRV’s do their thing.

There are ems to open therm converters available but their compatibility with your particular boiler would need checking.