I would like to have a log-burner installed in my period living room - it's an 1860s brick house with a large chimney breast. Putting in a modern slate hearth and panelling out a rectangular recess with fire-board wouldn't really fit the vibe of the room but that's how I've always seen it done...
It's fairly classic symptoms, and confirmed by the professionals who inspected in person so not sure what point a photo is going to prove.. I am asking - on the presumption it is RD - to what extent it needs to be "cured", or can it be managed in more traditional ways.. ventilation, breathable...
My solid-brick Victorian house has rising damp on the north exterior wall. Historically there has clearly been an injection DPC but it has failed - most likely bridging as the external wall was rendered on top (now removed) and the ground level outside is higher than ideal.
I've got a quote to...
The worst one is in a bathroom - there is a DMEV but the room is used every day for bath/shower and struggles with condensation (solid brick wall) so the wall WILL be wet. My understanding is once plaster has got wet and the paint failed, it is VERY susceptible to moisture getting sucked back...
I have several isolated damp spots on plastered walls/ceilings - typically up to a foot in size - which are typically linked to historic water e.g. a slipped roof slate.
The problem is that once it has got damp, it just keeps sucking in water from the air, etc, and I cannot tell which may still...
I wonder if they are white label.
That said I’ve found some chat on an electrician forum and Quinetic seems to be the clear favourite, being TLC Direct seems to buy them approval from tradies. So I think I’ll go that brand when/if I try it out.
There seems to be a lot more integrations than in...
I was looking into the Quinetic light switch products and like the principle, but when searching for them on Amazon UK I only see products by ECO-NEWLEAF. A bit of googling says Quinetic is only sold by TLC-Direct.
The products look near-identical and I don't want to get into a mess of...
On the other hand, if you wear it at all times you don't have to remember to put it on. Isn't it standard practice to require hard hat and good boots/shoes on site regardless if you're just doing an inspection?
I had never twigged that one reason fibreglass ladders are preferred is the heat/electrical insulation properties.
How much safety does it actually gain if you should happen to do something dumb?
All metal ladders I've used have plastic/rubber feet - how come these don't give the same...
This rather nice mixer tap partially failed.. turning the lever to shower has no effect now.
I don’t know if this might be fixable, but I cannot see any way to access it?
are any of the outbuildings themselves substantial/liveable? Did you have to go through this in a lot of detail with the insurer to ensure they are covered.. mind if I ask who you use?