Recent content by motco

Well scusi! I owe Ducati (the brand of the current capacitor) an apology! Certainly the cap had declined to 2.3 microfarads but it is not the reason for less than optimum rise. The RS one in situ results in a 'large' wholemeal loaf with a crown that does not rise above rim of the pan. Perhaps...

I've ordered one from RS Components - more expensive but hopefully longer lasting. More anon...

Two years or so down the line here's hoping everyone here is well and enjoying their Panasonic SDxxxx breadmakers. Mine has been steadily declining in performance over the past few weeks and so I decided to open it up and test the Ducati capacitor again. It was 2.8 microfarads when installed but...

I had a similar problem. Water was pouring through my hall ceiling (single storey). To cut the story short it is, I sincerely hope, caused by accumulation of moss in an overlapping tile valley between two runs of adjacent Marley modern concrete tiled low pitch roofs. The moss hinders the water...

Harry, I am not the OP, I hijacked the thread with my similar problem. My question is whether I should earth the affected pipework near the incoming supply rather than at the, now unearthed, remote end.

Thread revival! :p I have had another perforation of the incoming cold water main, just like the previous one and within only a couple of metres of it. Having been through all the sage advice of contributors earlier in the thread, I have had a thought. This trouble coincidentally started soon...

I had very smelly hot water - noticed it in the shower at first. We're in a glis glis area (Google will help) and my fear is always an infestation in the roofspace. Previously I had fished three rotting bodies from the heating header tank, so there was precedent prior to our arrival. Long story...

Unless you hail from the planet Zog, you won't be able to handle the baking pan during baking, let alone the element! You certainly have a temperature control issue. The only device that is likely to be attached to a surface that represents the baking temperature (>120ºC I estimate) is either...

The thermal fuse is just that, a fuse. It cuts the power to the heater in the event that the thermostat has failed to 'ON'. Whether the part I show in my picture is the 'stat sensor or the fuse I don't know. If it isn't then I cannot help further as my machine is different from yours anyway.

Of course it could equally be the thermal fuse, I have no real idea. If you have already replaced the thermal fuse you'll know. Immediately after removing a loaf from my machine I measured the temperature of the inner wall of the baking cavity with a non-contact IR thermometer. It was between...

The thermostat won't be on the pcb but will be connected back to it by a cable. Its function is to monitor the temperature in the cavity in which the baking pan sits so it will be a small device either inside or outside the metal wall - probably inside in the space between the wall of the cavity...

The motor capacitor is unlikely to have a role in the heat cycle. If the element is getting hot, which I assume it is, then the thermostat may be at fault.

Interesting! My only first hand knowledge of a.c. motors was at Hoover Ltd in the 1960s but those motors were field winding and armature types and the only capacitors were for suppressing interference. I can now see why loss of capacitance would have an adverse effect on torque. Thanks again RG.

Thanks RG, I was about to do a bit of self-education! (y)

The loaf was excellent! Now I am completely baffled as to what the failing capacitor was actually doing to affect the kneading. The motor ran and runs now making the same (offload) noises, and it was kneading - I looked. However, unarguably this loaf is far better than any of the recent ones...