Recent content by Mudster

Aquapanel or simlar (hardibacker) is what you require for the shower area and then tank it as suggested above. For ply directly onto joists, the answer depends on how far apart the joists are and how thick the joists are, if it's chipboard I'd imagine it a relatively new construction so the...

I find US specs generally over engineered, I find UK specs generally under engineered, a middle ground is usually where I aim. Remember also that our houses and floor areas are generally much smaller when compared to USA properties, movement is often directly related to surface area. So small...

SUbstrate preparation differs substantially between the UK and USA, 12mm ply is perfectly acceptable on solidly constrcuted joists and floorboards. These are generally more substantial than the start point in the USA, also people will generally not pay for correct preparation in the UK, our...

not really, there is insulation available but it wouldn't make any great deal of difference. I'd suggest Under floor heating set to run very low just to take the chill off if you're that concerned.

weight isn't an issue. Marble requires a far more rigid floor than ceramics or porcelain, about 50% more rigid so 12mm ply isn't enough. Your best bet is to glue and screw Aquapanel to the floor using Rapidset flexible tile adhesive. This gives a rigidity similar to 18mm ply but it's only...

And if you do buy from Richon say hello to Peter (which I'm absolutely sure is not his name, but I don't speak Chinese), These things really do work and He now has a proper supply of small core bits, He sent me a 25mm bit to try which worked very nicely.

BAL Superflex or BAL wide joint with GT1 admix. Or any grout described as flexible and suitable for small amounts of vibration.

just keep everything as clean as you can, keep a bucket of water and a sponge to hand. Only mix what you can use and power mix it if possible.

The closest you'll get to a guarantee not to crack is with a 30mm diamond core bit.

As I understand it, cement based adhesives will eventually start to attack the reflective backing of mirrors. I'f fitted a fair few tiled in mirrors over the years, but I always get them foil backed and made to size in one piece. So I'm not sure what you'd use to grout a mirror tile.

The paint needs to be removed and a correct primer used.

Called Aquapanel.

Get it cut professionally on a diamond bridge saw, the cut will be mm perfect. Also, slate dust is a carcinogen, using a dry cutting grinder blade is not sound advice.

Most self levelling screeds will only deal with 5-10mm. some up to 25mm with granite bulking. 50mm you really need a sand/cement screed, but this doesn't really like going less than 50mm. Seeing as the floor will be tiled I'd be tempted to use a self leveller and build it in layers, but it...

Yup that makes sense. And I see nothing wrong with your reasoning, the only governing factor will how thick the screed needs to be, it's this thickness that will dictate the most suitable product.