Recent content by NorthernLights811

Sorry, misunderstood, I thought you meant to take off the cap and soak it, to remove calcium deposits etc.

I doubt it's that, as it's only on hot water.

This was my first reaction too. How come the noise is more prominent on the bottom part of the plumbing though?

My kitchen tap started making a weird noise on the hot water the last 3 days. What could it be? See here There is no pump in the water mains.

Well...the property was built in 1910, so I'd expect some crap. I even saw newspaper between the bricks when I replaced the doors with the casings!

I meant that each wire was mapped to its respective position. From one position to another.

Update: All done, replaced 1 to 1, wires labeled with electrical tape, unit seems to be working fine.

There are, it was just me wondering, "since both are neutral, does it matter which is which?" I can screw a screw, but I'm no electrician :)

Of course, it was just me trying to see whether ChatGPT would work feeding it some pictures. Turns out it has an answer. A wrong one.

Does it matter which N goes where? ChatGPT says: No, it doesn't matter which blue (neutral) wire you connect to N IN and N OUT as long as: One blue wire is connected to the neutral supply (mains) at N IN. The other blue wire is connected to the neutral going to the load (appliance or light)...

Here you go, the same in black...

I'm still not sure. Brown ones are L IN and L OUT, from your diagram. N IN and N out, I'm inclined to say, the blue ones? And take the red one out?

Doesn't mention. Could it be just an old design whereby you had to connect the fuse separately for some reason?

I only have 1 immersion heater, at least this is what is was when I bought the property... It doesn't look like there was a second one or any other device. The extractor fan has its own switch.

How weird. I don't think the fuse was connected later though as the switch is one piece with the fuse.