Recent content by northie

Thanks, will continue with the trial and error on that valve for now. Really appreciate the assistance!

Sorry made the comment about the rads because somewhere I read opening the by-pass has an adverse impact on flow through the zone valves, I.e. some of flow is permanently running back to boiler through the by-pass. The by-pass is in the airing cupboard. The frost protection is literally...

Agreed, very possibly lazyness on my part. Can’t be sure it started when Hive went in as that was 2017. Maybe the zone valve stopped working then but the symptoms prevailed when the bypass valve was closed. Not sure. Radiators have been on and still get very hot.

Major improvement last night. Frost protect kicked in at about 3:30am and although it did wake me up I didn't actually need to do anything. Obviously semi-concious but I would say came on for 1 min and heard a couple of bubble & bangs right before it turned off. I think the answer is to get...

I did consider this. We get down to about 16 degrees in the house when frost stat triggers in garage on 5. So if I took this approach I’d probably need to be more than 12. I guess the issue would be around how quickly the temp drops outside vs the efficiency of the house and how much heat it...

Hmmm maybe I need to have a look at how I wired Hive in then. This is the room stat that triggers the zone valve for CH but I seem to recall the original room stat is still connected as I have to turn this up to 40 degrees so the Hive can control on / off. See how it goes tonight and then if...

To summarise what's been done: Frost stat set to 5 degrees. Pipe stat moved from flow pipe to return pipe. Pipe stat turned down from 55 degrees to around 25 degrees. Bypass valve moved from fully closed to open half a turn. When I tested frost stat earlier the boiler kicked in for approx 1...

So I did the above and the frost protection kicked in. Checked the pump and it is running. Checked the Honeywell valve and there was still resistance on the lever suggesting the valve isn't opening when under frost protection conditions. To confirm put the system back to normal tried the...

Aaah didn’t know that and did turn the heating back on through Hive after I finished playing with it last night. So I’ve opened the bypass valve half way and turned the frost stat up to 10 degrees so it clicks and removed the stat off the pipe so the residual heat in the pipe was no longer...

Thank you all for the replies so far

Frost stat (RTS3) sat at side of boiler is set to 5 degrees and pipe stat (PTS1) is on the return pipe and set to 25 degrees. Last night I had the CH zone valve set to open/manual and in the middle of the night the frost stat fired the boiler and I still got the banging. There are 17 radiators...

After a bit of Googling of bypass valves in my dinner break I think I might have found it. Between the pump and the 2x zone valves I found a 3rd pipe off which joins to the return pipe coming out of the hot water tank. On that pipe is the valve below, it’s closed currently which is clearly...

Yes when I say radiator valve from automatic to open I mean the zone valve that controls the flow from boiler into the radiators.

I haven’t managed to locate a bypass valve. But last night I did move the radiator valve from automatic to manual / open and we still had the same noises. If my understanding is correct shouldn’t that have allowed the water to flow round the rads (assuming pump kicks in)?

Hoping someone on the board can help me with this issue - to which I am sure the answer is staring me in the face... Problem Our heating and hot water work absolutely fine on their schedule or manual boost, but... When the temperature drops each night it triggers the frost stat and causes our...