Recent content by nowthendiy

Thank you danfre. (It isn't a large system, by the way - just a 3-bed semi)

I'm really sorry. I'm away from home at the moment. I can let you know when I get back in a couple of days. However, it is a Glow Worm. Possibly the Energy 30C.

The boiler must be at least 10 years old. He did use a flue gas analyser. I'm not sure how far he got with the rest of the service. He certainly wants to charge for the full service.

Now that it is getting cold in Yorkshire, I arranged for a heating engineer to come and service my boiler. He replaced an expansion vessel that was external to my combi boiler. I don't actually know why it needed replacing (but maybe it was leaking past the diaphragm - who knows). First of all...

Same to you. I really appreciate your helping me out right until the end. Thank you

Thank you very much. That looks much better.

Well. Thank you very much for your explanations and your diagnosis. I have just taken up the boards and discovered that the spur is at least 15 feet away from the socket from which it is spurring. However, there was a junction box very close to the spur. I discovered that the neutral wire was...

Is the Neutral line actually connected to Earth somewhere by the consumer unit? So, presumably, the fact that the neutral is not remaining at 0V would tell you that it is not connected. Do you understand why the neutral is 122V when the switch is turned on? and 240V with an appliance connected?

Thanks for replying so quickly. Yes, there is only one cable. It is not clear where this socket is spurring from. It sounds like I will have to get under the floorboards. Would you be kind enough to explain how you worked out that the neutral is missing? Thanks

FrodoOne, here are my readings: Measurements at front of socket with NO appliance plugged in and the switch on: L-E: 236V N-E: 122V L-N: 15V but fluctuating Measurements at front of socket with appliance plugged in and the switch on: L-E: 235V N-E: 234V L-N: 0V to 15V but fluctuating...

The terminals in the back of the socket are fine. I suppose there could be a problem within the socket itself innards. Other than that, I suppose that I will have to do the unenviable task of crawling under the floor to find out what is upstream of the spur, unless anyone has any clever ways of...

I have a twin mains socket with two neon power switches. When I toggle a switch to the ON position, it is much dimmer than it should be. Also, when I plug a device into the mains socket, the device will not work. I assume this is because no current is being supplied. If I meter between Live and...

terryplumb, the tap is leaking when it is opened. So, I was wanting to replace the rubber o-ring that is around the spindle. Anyway, thanks chaps. I just needed to know that I wasn't trying to remove something with force that is incapable of being removed.

I removed the screw from the head of the tap and assumed that the plastic(?) head would just pull off. I have pulled as hard as I dare but it won't budge. Is there something that I am missing? Thanks