Recent content by oldbuffer

1. I don't think you can get new ones 2. Adlink do a reconditioned one. I fitted one years ago and it was fine.

1. They will unscrew. 2. Quite often they are made of a zinc based alloy. This can corrode so badly that the shrouds collapse when undone, so be prepared to: 2.1 Replace the taps entirely. OR 2.2 Fit tap revivers in their place. E.g. Screwfix item No. 9745P. The handles don't match the...

1. Required size of gas pipe depends on boiler output. Only the smallest likely to work correctly on 15mm pipe over the 10 metre run. 2. Highly unlikely ANY combi boiler will run on 15mm pipe. 3. A very small (15 / 18 kW) open vent boiler might run. 4. The deciding factor is the pressure drop...

Myson still make imperial sized radiators.

1. Turn off water and empty cistern. 2. Remove pipe from cistern to back of WC, remove and discard fush cone. 3. Thoroughly clean end of flush pipe and hole in WC. 4. Refit flush pipe with new, rubber, flush cone. The rubber ones generally seal better than the plastic ones. 5. Screwfix Item...

1. If you have an Assured Shorthold contract with the tenant, these usually state blockages are the tenant's problem. 2. Otherwise, as Wayners above.

1. Broadly, as above. Foam washer between upper side of sink and underside of waste flange, black rubber washer below sink. 2. If it leaks: 2.1 Remove and discard foam washer. 2.2 Roll a "sausage" 6mm thick from Plumber's Mait. 2.3 Wrap sausage around underside of flange. 2.4 Screw waste...

1. If you are talking about connecting to the threaded tap shank there is enough flat surface for the connector seal to sit on. Should be fine. 2. Connect, turn on water, observe. No leak = fine.

1. You could use an old fashioned plug on a chain. You obviously need a plug which will fit the waste. It is unlikely that your bath will have a ring to secure the free end of the chain, so you might have to improvise by something like a rubber sucker stuck to the wall. 2. I'm surprised you...

Might well be olive crushed into pipe. If so will need: 1. The end of the pipe cutting off and an extension adding on. OR 2. If available, a pipe expander to bring the pipe back to 15mm along its length.

I'd be reluctant to reduce the diameter of an overflow pipe. It may be 1" to cope with the flow rate if the input is 22mm. Perhaps better to run a new overflow to outside.

This is one possibility. Can't tell for certain without make and model: 1. Tap. Unscrew the domed chrome ring near the front. Then unscrew the plain chrome ring behind it. The square chromed plate is probably stuck to the wall with silicone. Use a large sharp knife to cut through the...

1. Many of those vertical radiators are sensitive to which end is flow into the radiator and which is return out of the radiator. 2. This type generall have a baffle on the flow side which direct the water up the columns. Without this, water tends to flow straight across and not heat the...

1. A rubber "sucker" like the tip of a child's bow and arrow or the suction cup of a hook. (E.g. Wickes Clear 40mm suction hooks) 2. Thin layer of cold water and an ice cube. 3. If it is a "pop up" waste with an operating lever behind the taps, push the operating spindle up fron the underside...

1. What boiler(s) (type, power in kW) were the quotes including pipe size upgrades for? 2. 15mm will support a 12kW load over a distance of just under 12 metres. But note that: 2.1 This is theoretical and assumes there are no bends or joins in the pipework, which is most unlikely. 2.2 Each...