Recent content by oldbuffer

1. What boiler(s) (type, power in kW) were the quotes including pipe size upgrades for? 2. 15mm will support a 12kW load over a distance of just under 12 metres. But note that: 2.1 This is theoretical and assumes there are no bends or joins in the pipework, which is most unlikely. 2.2 Each...

If you live in a hard water area, I wouldn't be bothered about the lead pipe from a health perspective.

I'd try to get a piece of something like thin electrical flex round the fitting inside the wall, just to give something to pull on should it disappear into the wall when the pipe comes free.

1. Looks like a JG Speedfit coupler / elbow. 2. I can't tell from the photograph, but sometimes there is a collar between the fitting and the white ring, to stop it being accidentally pushed in. If there is such a ring, remove it. 3. Push the white ring towards the body of the fitting, and...

Hard to tell from the photos. Likely to be a push in stud with red and blue indexes. If so, should prise out.

"the original pipes ...." meaning the pipes already in place.

1. Unless you have a current gas safe registration there is nothing you can or should do. 2. Get a gas safe registered engineer to do the work of identifying whether it is a gas pipe or not, and then: 2.1 Re-capping it somwhere below the floor boards. Nothing to stop you lifting the boards in...

1. Some radiator manufacturers state that over a certain size, onle the smaller "from the wall" side of the bracket should be used. I suspect this is because the brackets are so thin the longer side is too weak. 2. I'd pack the 4x2s out with strips of plywood or similar. 3. Might be worth...

1. Did you have the incoming mains water pressure and flow rates measured before the installation. If so, what were the pressure and dynamic flow rate readings? 2. Do you know the diameter of the cold water pipes?

Those look like push fit waste pipes. It's possible that nade up "U" bend is part blocked, sending water back up either / both of the open ended vertical pipes. As a first step open up that U bend and check for blockages. The pipes should just pull apart. Be careful, there is likely to be...

It is likely to be one of two things: 1. The piece which connects the valve to the radiator (called a tail) is leaking where it screws into the radiator. Proceed per denso13 above. Note that you will have to drain the system to remove and refit the tail. There are ways of avoiding a drain...

Most are adjusted by: 1. Removing a stop (often plastic) which fits over the splines on the shaft. 2. Turning the shaft (often anti-clockwise) until the water temperature reaches 38 or 40 3. Refitting the clip so that it abuts another stop within the body of the shower. 4. Refitting the knob so...

1. 1/4 BSP OD is about 13.2mm diameter 2. So not 1/4 BSP 3. Could be M5 or 1/4" BSF or 1/4" BSW 4. Need to measure the thread pitch. 5. M5 thread is 0.8mm pitch

1. See post #3 item 3. Looks like 1/4 BSP but can't tell from a photogrpah. 2. See post #3 item 4. Can't tell what thread it is without measurements. 3. To measure diameter (with reasonable accuracy but without verniers / micrometer): 3.1 Get a strip of paper with a straight edge. 3.2 Wrap...

1. It's a Deva Attersall Coronation 1902 bath shower mixer (Model CR23) . Discontinued and there appear to be no parts available. 2. Your photograph 9053.JPEG shows a brass collar above the screw thread and below the hesagon head. If this is essential, you aren't going to find a replacement.