Recent content by oldbuffer

I'd be reluctant to reduce the diameter of an overflow pipe. It may be 1" to cope with the flow rate if the input is 22mm. Perhaps better to run a new overflow to outside.

This is one possibility. Can't tell for certain without make and model: 1. Tap. Unscrew the domed chrome ring near the front. Then unscrew the plain chrome ring behind it. The square chromed plate is probably stuck to the wall with silicone. Use a large sharp knife to cut through the...

1. Many of those vertical radiators are sensitive to which end is flow into the radiator and which is return out of the radiator. 2. This type generall have a baffle on the flow side which direct the water up the columns. Without this, water tends to flow straight across and not heat the...

1. A rubber "sucker" like the tip of a child's bow and arrow or the suction cup of a hook. (E.g. Wickes Clear 40mm suction hooks) 2. Thin layer of cold water and an ice cube. 3. If it is a "pop up" waste with an operating lever behind the taps, push the operating spindle up fron the underside...

1. What boiler(s) (type, power in kW) were the quotes including pipe size upgrades for? 2. 15mm will support a 12kW load over a distance of just under 12 metres. But note that: 2.1 This is theoretical and assumes there are no bends or joins in the pipework, which is most unlikely. 2.2 Each...

If you live in a hard water area, I wouldn't be bothered about the lead pipe from a health perspective.

I'd try to get a piece of something like thin electrical flex round the fitting inside the wall, just to give something to pull on should it disappear into the wall when the pipe comes free.

1. Looks like a JG Speedfit coupler / elbow. 2. I can't tell from the photograph, but sometimes there is a collar between the fitting and the white ring, to stop it being accidentally pushed in. If there is such a ring, remove it. 3. Push the white ring towards the body of the fitting, and...

Hard to tell from the photos. Likely to be a push in stud with red and blue indexes. If so, should prise out.

"the original pipes ...." meaning the pipes already in place.

1. Unless you have a current gas safe registration there is nothing you can or should do. 2. Get a gas safe registered engineer to do the work of identifying whether it is a gas pipe or not, and then: 2.1 Re-capping it somwhere below the floor boards. Nothing to stop you lifting the boards in...

1. Some radiator manufacturers state that over a certain size, onle the smaller "from the wall" side of the bracket should be used. I suspect this is because the brackets are so thin the longer side is too weak. 2. I'd pack the 4x2s out with strips of plywood or similar. 3. Might be worth...

1. Did you have the incoming mains water pressure and flow rates measured before the installation. If so, what were the pressure and dynamic flow rate readings? 2. Do you know the diameter of the cold water pipes?

Those look like push fit waste pipes. It's possible that nade up "U" bend is part blocked, sending water back up either / both of the open ended vertical pipes. As a first step open up that U bend and check for blockages. The pipes should just pull apart. Be careful, there is likely to be...

It is likely to be one of two things: 1. The piece which connects the valve to the radiator (called a tail) is leaking where it screws into the radiator. Proceed per denso13 above. Note that you will have to drain the system to remove and refit the tail. There are ways of avoiding a drain...