Recent content by oldbuffer

The instructions require a dedicated supply from the hot water cylinder. You are not supposed to use the existing pipework where it supplies other outlets.

1. It seems unlikely that water meters will not become compulsory over the next few years. 2. As you probably know, the issue is not so much the toilets as the 6 litre maximum flushing volume. 3. We have 2 modern (approx. 10 year old) and one old (approx 90 years old) WCs. All flush well and...

1. Those "Shetack" style spanners are designed for back nut sizes of 1/2" and 3/4" BSP - which is not the distance between the jaws anyway. 2. If you have a modern monobloc tap with a single threaded shank, these will not fit. 3. I'd suggest you have two choices: 3.1 Go for an adjustable tap...

1. What you suggest is OK. 2. I'd leave it at moving the right hand connection up. 3. I would (if using compression fittings): 3.1 Cut the the boiler return pipe about 50 mm above the lower elbow. 3.2 Cut the same pipe about 50 mm below the boiler elbow. 3.3 Fit the magnaclean. 3.4 Cut...

You need to sort out what tap(s) you are going to fit first. They way they connect to the pipes will determine what you need. Most, but not all, taps these days come with flexible connectors.

From what I can see from your slightly fuzzy photograph, there doesn't look to be much wrong with the shower itself. From this and your original description of "has corroded internally and fallen off" it seems that the damage is internal to the knob. On this basis jj4091's suggestion of...

By the sound of it you have a concealed shower. I.e. the "works" are recessed into the wall with only the controls and a cover plate showing. If this is correct then: 1. Unless you can get exactly the same make and model (which sounds unlikely given the lack of spares) it is most unlikely...

1. The thread of the tail you bought is the correct size. The threaded part screws into the radiator after you have removed the existing tail for the union fitting. 2. If you imagine that tail screwed into the radiator, then the plain part sticking out is what the valve fastens on to. The...

1. In your photograph the lower chrome plated part is what screws into the radiator and is called a "tail". Incidentally, the lower nut screwed onto the threaded part shoulddn't be there, it is to attach the valve (upper part in your photograph) to the pipework. 2. The valve is attached to the...

You'll have to split the cistern from the pan. Procedure is as follows: 1. Isolate the incoming cold water. If lucky, you'll have an isolation valve on the incoming water just below the WC. If not, you'll have to find some other way of isolating. 2. Empty cistern. Flush, then sponge out...

If there are no bolts / wing nuts visible behind the pan, its likely to be a top fixing seat. If so: 1. Remove the seat, and the stainless steel covers of the fixings. 2. The fixings should have screws in them. These screw into some form of expanding nut. 3. Pull up on the screw heads while...

1. You need an incoming mains flow rate of around 20 litres per minute at a dynamic (at least one mains outlet running while you measuer the pressure) pressure of 2.0 bar to get good performance from an unvented cylinder. 2. Installing an unvented cylinder is a job for someone with a current G3...

1. If you mean a toilet cistern: 1.1 Many manufacturers of WC inlet valves, flush valves / syphons recommend NOT using those cistern blocks. Apparently in some cases the chemicals can cause the plastic components to deteriorate. 1.2 Given regular use, limescale is unlikely to cause more of a...

1. They look like quarter turn taps. If so, no washers but will have cartridges. 2. If cartridges you need to get exact matches. With no further information (make, model) you will have to remove a cartridge and: 2.1 Make various measurements (see TapMagician web site) and select correct ones...

1. Built in 1957 a wall will almost certainly be a cavity wall, of the type you have used. While there will likely be some bridging with debris, this is most likely to be at the base of the wall, and given that heat rises, will have little effect. I'd use the normal uninsulated cavity wall U...