Recent content by oldbuffer

Hard to tell without a photograph showing all of the tap, but you might consider fitting a pair of "tap revivers". For example, Screwfix item number 19163. You would need to shut off the hot and cold and remove the "headworks" of the existing taps. The headworks is the part with the brass...

1. A combi boiler is likely to be even slower filling a bath. OK for a single shower, but hot flow rates are usually around 12 litres per minute. 2. The head (pressure) of hot water will be around 0.15 bar given that tap is likely to be 1.5 metres below base of cold water storage cistern...

Perhaps suggest to your Gas Safe engineer that he / she replace the Schrader valve insert. Not expensive, can be bought from Halfords, but there are two sorts, short and long. Can be tested by inflating vessel, then putting a bubble of spit over the mouth of the valve - if it bubbles up...

Few things to try: 1. See if handle lever unscrews to reveal another grub screw(s). If so, remove. 2. Try pouring hot water (not boiling, might crack porcelain) over main part of handle. Expansion might loosen handle. 3. Try several applications of scale remover in crack between handle and...

To fix a leaking gland nut on a stop valve. Close the valve completely. Turn clockwise looking down on the handle. Undo the gland nut. This is the small nut, usually hexagonal but occasionally a knurled ring. If the “T” piece for the handle is screwed on in the centre, try and loosen the...

1. Looking at the side of the cistern and the lmescale on it I'd suspect it has been overfilling for some years. 2. I'd suggest you take a Part 2 float valve and a new ball. Make sure the ball fits the end of the valve rod. 3. I'd also suggest something to clear the overflow pipe. A (long?)...

1. The key variables are: 1.1 Length of each shower (minutes) 1.2 Flow rate required for each shower (litres per minute (lpm)). Probably given as lpm / bar. If cylinder upstairs, assume 3.0 bar if incoming is 3.5. 2. From the above work out the water usage. Probably safe to assume 2/3 to 3/4...

1. If you are new to soldering (for plumbing, not electronics) I would advise you not to remove using heat. 2. It should be possible for someone experienced, by covering the plastic and its brass connections to the copper pipework with water saturated cloths / towels. He / she would need to...

Just a thought. In your first picture the rubber washer appears to have a lip to it. Is it the right way round or is the narrow diameter meant to go inside the fitting with the broad back of the washer against the flange?

1. To make a connection on the electrical side of the boiler, you generally need to remove the cover or swing down part of it. 2. On some, but not all, gas boilers, the cover is sealed to the case, and this seal ensures products of combustion can only escape via the flue system. 3. On such...

As a bit of a side issue, having a baffle in the radiator suggest to me that it is sensitive to which is the flow end and which the return. Worth checking before fitting.

1. Most inductive loads have a heavy current surge when the voltage is first applied. Don't understand why Tado should think this is unusual. 2. Unfortunateley I can't see the connections clearly in your attached image. I bigger image of the wiring diagram would be helpful, together with an...

1. You will need to remove the cartridge (usually all brass) from the chrome surround. 2. Then as cross thread suggests. OR 3. Look at the Tap Magician web site to see what measurements you need to take. Its a bit more than you suggest in your post.

1. Both threads (1/2" BSP and 1/2" NPT) are 14 threads per inch (TPI) 2. NPT threads are 60 degree included angle, whereas BSP are 55 degree (i.e. Whitworth form) 3. The easiest way to determine which is which, without a thread gauge, is to try a 1/2" BSP female thread onto both ends of the...

The instructions require a dedicated supply from the hot water cylinder. You are not supposed to use the existing pipework where it supplies other outlets.