Recent content by oldbuffer

An update to my previous post. Armeg "jaw droppers" do not have a spanner to fit the spout's back nut so not suitable for that part of the job.

1. As its coloured white, that is probably the expansion vessel for an unvented cylinder, not for the boiler. 2. If for an unvented cylinder, there should be a tun dish near the hot water cylinder through which any drips should be visible. 3. If the drip is coming from a copper fitting outside...

1. That's what is known as a three hole tap. I find them difficult to work on. 2. Unless you are a pretty experienced DIYer and have a good set of tools, I'd recommend getting a plumber to do it. 3. If you intend to DIY it you are likely to have to do a fair bit of dismantling to get at...

1. Not all cisterns are fitted with bolts through the base passing through the back of the bowl. 2. The alternative is a metal plate. This is oval shaped, has a large hole in the centre for the pipe and a slot in each of the "wings" of the oval. 3. These have square shanked bolts. You fit the...

Where is the water dripping from? Photo of drip and of boiler filling loop would be useful.

1. If that tape measure in your picture shows the length of the existing radiator, it is 4' 2 1/4" long, not 5' 2". Equivalent to 1,276 mm. If you got a 1200 wide, you would need to "make up" 76 mm. One 1" and one 2" extension = 76.2 mm, so should do the job. Not symmetrical but you might be...

1. There are two valves with blue handles. 2. The one closest to the yellow handled (gas) valve is the one I refer to as the inner. 3. These valves are normally: 3.1 Off (closed) when the handle is at right angles to the long body of the valve. 3.2 On (open) when the handle is parallel with the...

1. What is dripping? 1.1 The outlet of the pressure relief valve. Usually copper turned back to a wall with an elbow. 1.2 The condensate pipe. Usually white plastic and should go to a drain, preferably internal. 1.3 A drain cock attached to the boiler feed or return. 2. If 1.1 then check...

1. That screw is what holds the waste fittings in place. There is no "hair trap" below it. 2. If you did not unscrew it fully, and it has screwed back up fairly tight, you shouldn't have any problems. 3. If you are unfortunate and there is a leak, the options may be: 3.1 Remove the bath...

1. Almost certainly not OK. 2. From your description it would be possible to have both immersions running off one supply from the consumer unit. 3. This would give a load of around 26 amps, each normal immersion heater being 3 kW. This could lead to: 3.1 Overheating of the cable from the...

Sounds as if the pipework between the Feed and Expansion (F&E) tank and the system is blocked. Try running a magnet over the pipework starting at the outlet from the F&E and working down. If it seems to stick in places, that is likely where the blockage is.

1. There may be some confusion here between check valves (also called non-return valves) and isolation valves. 2. Check valves are intended to ensure water can only flow one way, and close automatically if flow is attempted in the wrong direction. They come as single or double check valves...

Red plastic - pull it straight off towards you.

I'd expect the rad plastic part to slide off the splined body of the tap. Could be stiff, so maybe limescale remover first.

Remove the white plastic splined part (may have a screw in the centre) and the red plastic part. Should reveal a hexagonal brass nut which forms part of the cartridge. Unscrew anti-clockwise looking end on. I'd mark the relative positions of the white plastic, red plastic and brass parts...