Recent content by oldbuffer

1. What you suggest is OK. 2. I'd leave it at moving the right hand connection up. 3. I would (if using compression fittings): 3.1 Cut the the boiler return pipe about 50 mm above the lower elbow. 3.2 Cut the same pipe about 50 mm below the boiler elbow. 3.3 Fit the magnaclean. 3.4 Cut...

You need to sort out what tap(s) you are going to fit first. They way they connect to the pipes will determine what you need. Most, but not all, taps these days come with flexible connectors.

From what I can see from your slightly fuzzy photograph, there doesn't look to be much wrong with the shower itself. From this and your original description of "has corroded internally and fallen off" it seems that the damage is internal to the knob. On this basis jj4091's suggestion of...

By the sound of it you have a concealed shower. I.e. the "works" are recessed into the wall with only the controls and a cover plate showing. If this is correct then: 1. Unless you can get exactly the same make and model (which sounds unlikely given the lack of spares) it is most unlikely...

1. The thread of the tail you bought is the correct size. The threaded part screws into the radiator after you have removed the existing tail for the union fitting. 2. If you imagine that tail screwed into the radiator, then the plain part sticking out is what the valve fastens on to. The...

1. In your photograph the lower chrome plated part is what screws into the radiator and is called a "tail". Incidentally, the lower nut screwed onto the threaded part shoulddn't be there, it is to attach the valve (upper part in your photograph) to the pipework. 2. The valve is attached to the...

You'll have to split the cistern from the pan. Procedure is as follows: 1. Isolate the incoming cold water. If lucky, you'll have an isolation valve on the incoming water just below the WC. If not, you'll have to find some other way of isolating. 2. Empty cistern. Flush, then sponge out...

If there are no bolts / wing nuts visible behind the pan, its likely to be a top fixing seat. If so: 1. Remove the seat, and the stainless steel covers of the fixings. 2. The fixings should have screws in them. These screw into some form of expanding nut. 3. Pull up on the screw heads while...

1. You need an incoming mains flow rate of around 20 litres per minute at a dynamic (at least one mains outlet running while you measuer the pressure) pressure of 2.0 bar to get good performance from an unvented cylinder. 2. Installing an unvented cylinder is a job for someone with a current G3...

1. If you mean a toilet cistern: 1.1 Many manufacturers of WC inlet valves, flush valves / syphons recommend NOT using those cistern blocks. Apparently in some cases the chemicals can cause the plastic components to deteriorate. 1.2 Given regular use, limescale is unlikely to cause more of a...

1. They look like quarter turn taps. If so, no washers but will have cartridges. 2. If cartridges you need to get exact matches. With no further information (make, model) you will have to remove a cartridge and: 2.1 Make various measurements (see TapMagician web site) and select correct ones...

1. Built in 1957 a wall will almost certainly be a cavity wall, of the type you have used. While there will likely be some bridging with debris, this is most likely to be at the base of the wall, and given that heat rises, will have little effect. I'd use the normal uninsulated cavity wall U...

1. You have a vented hot water system. 2. It is likely that the bath is fed from the cold water storage cistern (CWSC) in loft. 3. Very unlikely the cold or hot are direct from the boiler. It is not a combi boiler. 4. The arrangement you are seeking to implement is likely to give very...

1. Looks good to me. Except that: 1.1 You have not made provision for heat loss through internal walls. There will be some if abutting rooms are expected to be cooler than the room you are measuring. 1.2 There is no allowance for doors. 2. Your "allowances / assumptions" otherwise are all on...

From a dim memory of a tap of this type I once changed: 1. The male threaded brass shank is part of the tap body. Turn it and the tap will turn as well. 2. The piece nearest the sink (just below the plastic reinforcing triangle) through which the two screws went is actually a form of nut, and...