Recent content by oldbutnotdead

If its been done properly, time. If whoever did it cocked up on catalyst or didn't mix the resin or topcoat properly or used old out of date resin/topcoat then a lot of time. Sunlight helps the stuff cure. How do you air a roof anyway?

None of our business. Maybe wanting to see where the slugs get in or if next doors' cat is sneaking in and eating all the food (both reasons I've set up kitchen cameras for)

No you have no chance of claiming anything from the builder for reasons above. If you have a traditional loft, check what depth insulation you have- if it is old and knackered then replace to 300mm depth, if its new and less than 300 then top up. Yes it could be an issue if you sell up (that...

Don't go anywhere near that PSU, it is 24v and probably not that stable (given it is designed for lighting). Easiest (assuming there's an earth in that JB) will be buy a 1 gang 13A USB socket and backbox, give it power from that JB and off you go. Or a standard 1g socket with a USB adaptor...

First question- what does the outside wall look like above the window hole? Typically there'll be a brick arch of some sort which supports the brickwork above the window, pic will help Second Q- grab a screwdriver and stab your internal timber lintels. If the screwdriver sinks in you'd be wise...

That's the bottom of the head fallen to bits isn't it? (Rather than the valve body). Agreed a year isn't really acceptable, 7 years is only tolerable. I've been using Toolstation 'contractor' valves with Drayton Wiser heads- been in 8 years now, no problems. The TS heads look quite robust, you...

Angle grinder with a diamond disc (tile or brick cutting) works well on plastic- bit noisy but no chips cos the cut gets warm. Enjoy :)

You can group multiple Wiser TRVs into one 'room' if you want to (I have 2 rads in the sitting room set this way). Or as mentioned keep the TRVs in separate 'rooms' and just use a common schedule on them.

Have a think about insulation (if any of the walls are outside walls). You can tile direct to brick or block. If you are boarding out you'd ideally use cement or marmox or something not plasterboard for the 'wet' walls (shower end and side of the bath)

Some general notes rather than specifics; When you replace the rads you will need to do your heat loss calculations- make sure you use modern tables (using lower flow temperatures) so that your boiler can condense properly. Once you have your heatloss calcs you can then determine tube sizes...

All that greenery poking out by the cover flashing may not be helping- if there is soil buildup under the slates the soakers could overflow. Green tinge to the chimney says there's lots of water coming down there as well- possibly getting under the felt/whatever is covering the coping stones and...

It may be an optical illusion but in your 2nd pic the top edge of the lower cover flashing seems to be poking out underneath the higher cover flashing.

Batten with shims/wedges will work fine and gives you a useful 'hard' line to level to. Drywall adhesive (the stuff used for dot and dab) will also work at that thickness but it gets expensive...

For soundproofing you'll be better off with acoustic batts rather than Celotex. Thermally the acoustic stuff is less efficient than PIR BUT it is much easier to get soft batts airtight. Overboard the studwork with at least 25mm PIR, maybe 50 (do the heatloss sums, i CBA) then plasterboard. (PIR...

First thing- your post is in the wrong forum, really needs to be in Plumbing and Heating. Second, has anyone checked dynamic supply pressure (ie with cold tap wide open, what pressure is pushing water out). Third, there's not a lot of point fitting boost pumps to the input of a combi. Fourth...