Recent content by paulandfrodo

Got the reply from BC. I'll put some intumescent on the joins and he's asked we put the skim on to 5mm rather than 3mm. Seeing the he also knows the plaster, who also lives on the same street as the job he's happy he will do that right. Thanks woody, good course of action. Appreciated.

Thanks woody, I've approached the inspector with suggested solutions. I've also said that if I have to, I will just crack on and double board everything. I will grumble and scuff my feet. I will just plan all future steels with this provisio. or, perhaps more grown up, get a verbal ok before I...

Hey woody. I normally use an independent inspector, however this time I've used a local one. Historically I have always done 12.5mm fireboard and things have been signed off. So I am slightly confused as to his insistence or how to deal with it. Whilst we could put another layer on, it will...

If it's 60 mins, then you are right, the white paper shows 15mm thickness. I just was not sure if it was 60 or 30 mins. I can still do additional mechanical fixings over. I suppose my only potential get-out would be that it supports the floor upstairs and a timber wall above that! It's in an...

I have had a look in Part B Volume 1 and cannot see the answer, it could be that I'm in a fuss and not looking hard enough. I have cased a 152x89x16UB on THREE sides with 12.5mm Gyproc Fireline. Well, the steel is actually encased in 25mm ply ( for some other reasons ) and then the fireline is...

I've also contacted Sika about their product - "507 Rendagrip Extra Grip Bonding Agent, Red 10L". To see if they have anything that might actually be white coloured - as opposed to the Red or Blue... which will make a hell of a mess....

I know plasterers use Blue or Red 'Grit' which will go over ANYTHING !!! But hell, it's messy stuff.... About £45 for 10l, so not a bad price, but as it's name, you would not want to splash it anywhere, really could do with a white coloured base coat !

This is the product. The customer had the tin still. Alas, not the rear of it !

Thanks lostinthelight, I have emailed the manufacturers about this after reading the FAQ's. What they say to cover their arses might not actually mean it cannot be done. There are a few products on the market that allow you to go over substrates that could be an issue - from a little research I...

Hi, I've got two buildings that are rendered and then have been sprayed with a coat of 'Thompson's One Coat Water Seal'. I want to put a colour ontop. Any suggestions of issues I might face or best products to use ? It was last sprayed over two years ago. The spray was only on the 'weathered...

I’ve owned the house 3 weeks, we have ripped most of the guts out of it. Leaving stuff we can refurbish and now we are fixing issues and removing structural elements. Full refurb. The arbortech saw was purchased for my previous project. For what it does it is brilliant. Do not use it for...

Ken, someone stole my industrial de-hum Gggrrrr.... But we have so many holes in this building now the airflow through it should do the trick. I've been monitoring the moisture in certain iffy walls and it's dropped considerably. Where we have particularly damp walls we are removing the old...

Ken, took a day to the front of the house, the rear and side will be about the same, but as we are rebuilding structural walls might be easier as we are having to pin stuff and remove walls, so we are hoping it will just drop down and out !

Ok... Well, after a bit of fussing I've got it all removed and have a stratergy. So, the basic trick I found was, upstairs cut out some bricks ( I'm lucky I've got an Arbortech Saw ). Then use drain rods to dislodge the insulation ( and snots ) above. These will then come down to your level...

I’ve got a turn of the century house. The cavities have the blown yellow insulation as well as old lime mortar bridging the cavities. Cut holes out on the brick work inside ( replastering house ), and tips on how to get this yellow beast out ??