Recent content by paulrockliffe

I could work the angles out but I'd never trust myself not to make a mistake. I would draw it in SketchUp and measure the angles there.

Thanks that's helpful, the only bit I'd take issue with is that I built the dormer and the reveals knowing I'd be fitting the windows and dealing with any leaks, so they are perfectly flush and dead flat :-) The lead is wrapped into the reveal, so the sill will be sat onto the lead, the tray...

Had a look at a few videos, the bit I'm not sure about is that those tapes are designed to expand to fill a gap. With my windows behind a reveal, they will fit up tight to the inner reveal, which is well formed in timber, so will not let the tape expand in any meaningful way. I guess it...

C16 is fine, all I'd say is that when I buy C16 and C24 the C16 ends up with well over half the lengths bent and twisted if it's sat in the house for a month or two. C24 it's more like 15% that end up unuseable. Does my head in to the point I don't use C16 for anything these days.

Yeah, that was the one I'd seen, but also saw there are a few different profiles available. There's one with a D shape at the end which looks like it might fill the reveal corner/frame interface bit quite nicely. I won't need much time to fit the windows once the tape is on as I'll be able to...

Not fitted windows before, but have some to do in the next few weeks. These are aluminium windows going in a mix of lead covered dormer and cedral clad wooden framing. In my head I was going to use silicone around the opening as the windows go in for the frame face to but up to, then get up...

Is there a link or some more info on the DSA Policy? I'm in the same position, kicking myself that I didn't fit the 45mm frames 7 years ago when I renovated the house as I always intended to convert our loft. My frames are solid oak, some 180mm deep, they really don't want to come out. I'm...

Can't answer your questions as I'm not sure I follow exactly what you're asking, but having converted my loft over the last year, my top-tip is regardless of whether the engineer has said C16 is OK, pay the extra for C24. It's so much better and isn't that much more expensive.

Think it's 800, but if there's a sill a child can stand on then the 800 starts again from there to the window opening. Check the regs. You can restrict the opening of it's a non escape window

Simple TRVs don't do anything other than balance the radiators badly, they don't allow for different temperatures in different parts of the house at different times of the day at all, which is what I'm after. The powered TRVs aren't a very good solution, they're handy if you want to zone every...

The Tado system manages the boiler demand for the for controllers, with a box wired to the boiler. The four thermostats then control their zone valve and all the boiler box to turn the boiler on. I think. So that side is relatively simple, so long as I put wires in from the wall boxes to the...

OK, so is the bypass for the pump or for the heat or for both? And is the bypass valved as well, or what stops the water just circulating the bypass and not bothering with the radiators?

I'm happy putting the valves on either, a quick Google said put them on the returns so they are kept at a lower temperature. Is that not better than a bit of noise when they close, or is the operating temperature not a problem? I'll check the bypass, from memory the boiler doesn't have one...

I'm converting my loft to create a couple of extra rooms and about to start thinking about plumbing in some central heating. I currently have a combi boiler whose outlet/inlet splits for ground floor and first floor, but isn't zoned. I am planning to splitt three ways at the boiler to take the...

Depends where the holes are to some extent, but I've repaired holes in the past by nogging around the hole, leaving a lip to support the new board, then dropped a piece in cut as close to size/shape as you can get. You can screw the noggins to floor joists with 45 degree screws, but you can...