Recent content by pertinky

For sure, finding a balance so its not shifting under my feet would be ideal

It's an option, but I can't see me being able to even walk on it until the Spring so its a last resort and if I have a small window to do something now (weather is good all week) then I will. I run some more experiments on the soil this morning and took some of the stuff thats fluid and added...

I ran a bit of an experiment this evening to at least try and formulate a plan... I'm trying to describe the soil...almost liquefied is probably the best description. I rolled back one section and add a whole gorilla tub of dry top soil on top and walked it down. The new soil compacted but...

The irony is that the two spare rolls ive left out are still alive and well. Last time I listen to sales reps telling you to get it down ASAP. Probably going to end up f*cking about with this until the end of the month.

A small update. I went ahead and installed some land drains over the weekend, making sure that no part of the lawn was > 2.5m away from one. Given the conditions I only went down to around 300mm, gravel and 60mm perforated pipe wrapped in geotextile with 100mm of topsoil back on top. The pipes...

Theres only a slight drop (it is meant to be flat) but so now drops around 1 inch over a 4.5m run. I guess what I meant was that there was no visible pooling aside from where i had walked over it and left some foot prints. The dog did get on it this morning (has been fenced off but he found a...

The subsoil (the contents of 2x grab lorries) was not compacted very much at all on purpose. Barrowed, raked roughly level and a light compaction (25kg whacker plate). Before laying the topsoil layer this subsoil was soft under foot after rain and seemed to drain off fine. The topsoil was...

Believe me at this point I'm close to it. Especially if one more person tells me it looks great when I know deep down it really isnt.

Hey guys, Title is a bit extreme, but I think I've royally f*cked up part of the prep for a new lawn as a result of time pressures and the weather and I'm clawing to anything not to rip it up. It's a narrow strip across the back of the house that was on a good slope (dropped 500-600mm over...

So I did this job and now have a similar problem with the new bifolds... The existing slab is 150mm short of the track (course of bricks plus 50mm cavity). The existing dpm won't reach the outer leaf though. I've fitted cavity closers vertically but the floor needs to support tiles. Should I...

Thought that might be the simplest option @23vc. Seems a bit pointless trying to squeeze any insulation down there (both slabs have wet UFH). Just make sure continuous DPM!

What am I supposed to do with the cavities left by removing the walls? They are currently 225mm below dpc. There is a void underneath the tiles where the screed bridges the gap of 50mm. This is where doors between rooms were Thanks

In that case then I could get some 7x2 noggins in there. Building extension at the moment so I've got alot of 400mm offcuts!

@Lower too much im afraid...plus all the pipes (bit of a mess really not where I would have run services) so it really is a no go in my opinion. Extra noggins will provide some additional support (especially around board joins). Would just changing the direction of the 2x2 also be useful to help...

Hi, Room above is a bathroom and has already been renovated so access from above is not possible however an old leak where the cylinder used to be means a good portion of ceiling below needs repairing and I was going to take this as an opportunity to put some sound insulation in the floor so...