Recent content by Pete the Feet

It will be an Electrolux. I have a Model JLBIFF55181 and the Electrolux equivalent is an LNT7NF18S5. The door attachments are two sliding tracks fixed to the cabinet doors. If you ring the Electrolux helpline they will advise. Be patient though. I only just saw this post as I was on here looking...

Yep you're quite right. I thought this was a normal forum but it has degenerated into the usual ****ing contest by the usual type of knowalls that you usually find on the Internet.

How so? The main losses are every time a tap is run and the cold static water is first run off. It pumps between the top and bottom of the cylinder to prevent stratification in the cylinder. It runs only when the cylinder is charging and is not pumping water around the house as a secondary...

I read it somewhere and then measured the gas usage on several occasions to verify. A bit disappointing I must admit. I have two temperature monitors one at the top of the cylinder and one near the bottom, and a shunt pump for the cylinder. The lower sensor is the one that controls the boiler...

Heating hot water for a cylinder is less efficient than using a combi for hot water. I worked out the efficiency was about 55% as opposed to a combi which is much higher. However there are many things to take into consideration. If your water pressure fluctuates all over the place or is low then...

Some items can cause water hammer. If the water flow is suddenly interrupted such as a solenoid valve closing sharply this can cause it. Our previous washing machine was a culprit for this, as is the steam generator for the shower cubicle. I've tried numerous surge arrestors on the steam...

I had a similar problem when first replacing a battery in my Scantronic panel. As Sparkymarka illustrated on a previous page the reset pins have to be seen to. Also I found disconnecting the nearby molex plug and reconnecting it sorted the problem. In my particular case I think it was detecting...

Yesterday I fitted the Reliance single check valve and success. I futst tried to blow it to check how easy it was to open and unlike the unbranded double check it opened quite easily. I think I would have needed either Louis Armstrong or a bigger pump to shift the double check. I've also managed...

Hi John Its the Ariston Primo ITI 300L indirect. I have branched off the flow within a few inches of the cylinder and fed into the cold water makeup rather than the secondary return connection, which is higher up the cylinder...

Hi John, here is the link to the website with the pump curves: https://wilo.com/gb/en/Products/en/products-expertise/wilo-sb/sb-30?t=1#c8ae2819c73fa5e2f0173fc3de5af355cTL3_product_technical I will source one of these valves as it will make for a better job than having to dog leg the pipe for a...

I finally got around to draining the system and fitting an additional isolation valve in order to experiment with and without check valves. Last week I removed the double check valve from the suction side of the pump and lo and behold it worked. However the downside of this is it won't work if...

A Wilo SB30, bronze.

Just what I thought on both counts. Draining down is a right pita, but I'll give it a go. I was going to try it without the check valve, then isolate as a test but the draining down is a rainy or snowy day job. I must add that I ran the outlet side of the pump into the cold water feed as the...

That's what I thought, but he was straight out with it and was obviously very aware of the situation. When the cylinder was initially installed I think it may have been the same chap I spoke to when I contacted them about the water hammer when an outside tap was opened. He knew the solution...

Slightly off topic but I thought some may be interested in the destratification pump. In short it doesn't circulate. I thought at first that either the double check valve was sticking or the pump was faulty. Alas no. After several emails and phone calls to the pump manufacturer and reading of...