Recent content by plugwash

Yeah, to get power from an EV charger you will need something that can simulate an EV. You can buy them from test equipment vendors but they are kinda pricy. From a quick search it seems the circuitry needed to build your own is not terriblly complex.

I just looked at what I think is the latest version of the TA6 form (annoyingly the law society don't seem to post it directly) and it no longer seems to mention notifiable electrical works specifically. It asks if the seller is "aware of electrical works carried out to the property" and if-so...

I think you are getting your editions mixed up, your install looks like a "16th edition" configuration to me. If all of the following are true. * The inspector follows the guidance from electrical safety first (which is the closest thing we have to official guidance, but is still not...

My understanding is that in-general if your failure to notify means that building control did not get an opportunity to inspect works they would normally have inspected, they can demand that those works are opened up for inspection. Even if the process of doing so is destructive. What I'm not...

The problem with that idea is these little things called seasons. If you size your system to adequately support your needs year-round then you will be exporting significantly in summer. OTOH if you size it so you are rarely exporting then you will likely need to import power in winter. That is...

What size are the cables? What rating are the breakers?

I don't know about the 1980s, but today "6181Y" insulated and sheathed single core cables seem to be available in all the standard sizes from 1mm² to 120mm².

Looking at it, my main concern would be how robustly the lid is retained. It seems to be relying on a relatively small notch in the plastic to prevent the lid being slid off without the use of a tool. Also that earth wire is too short, but that is presumablly down to whoever wired the plug...

And similarly the narrowboat. I can think of a few reasons. 1. Neither the site operator, or the caravan/boat owner can rely on the other being compliant with current, or even any, regs. 2. Caravans and boats may sometimes be connected to supplies not originally/primerally intended for that...

Personally I would not make this lead, instead I would make two leads. One lead from a 13A plug to 4mm shrouded connectors and one from 4mm shrouded connectors to a 13A socket. Why? because if the lead you propose gets misplaced, then someone (including your future self) may mistake it for a...

Ah those things, I'm skeptical for several reasons. Firstly, price and availability generally seems poor. Secondly, a cable with a connector on is much harder to get through the building fabric than a plain cable Thirdly what impact do all these extra connectors have on long term reliability...

The transition to renewables leads to increasingly difficult conditions for the grid. Sometimes you have an excess of power, other times it's very tight, sometimes you have power but it's in the wrong place and you lack the capacity to get it where it needs to go. Peak demand in the UK is in the...

When it comes to LED bulbs for replacing incandescents there seem to be two main styles. One style has the LEDs on a flat circuit board at the base of the bulb, this projects most of the light forward. The other is the "filament" style which has a load of tiny LEDs mounted between pairs of...

If it's a common size, I'd convert it for use with LED tubes. Nowadays I avoid integrated LED fittings where there is a reasonable alternative (sadly in some cases there isn't). I've just had too many failures.

Not just lights, but any equipment that is not connected by a "socket-outlet from which the plug is readily withdrawable". So when working to those regs if you were to hardwire an appliance or locate the socket such the plug was not "readily withdrawable" then you would need to provide a...