Recent content by PolkadotFish

I did. It didn't increase the flow obviously. But it maxed the watts and was much noisier.

The overall flow is reducing as the TRVs are closing What setting should I have P1 on? It can also do PP CP etc. It's currently on CC2 but it would be good if I could drop P3 and have P1 & P2 adjust to the TRVs together.

Downstairs radiators now hot! With the settings as they were last night P2 & P3 - 1.0 m³/h 46 & 85 W (I checked, it was 46w, but that is with the P3 in series) It took ~2½ minutes for the hot water to travel ~70m. Once the bypass thermostat registered the hot water, it closed and P1 joined...

Both the radiator and underfloor heating modes go up to 7.5m Yesterday the radiator mode seemed to give a faster flow. I'll experiment with both.

The heat store is up to 92°c The sonic flow meter is reading 0.000000 m³/h That meter is on the return run. Those pipes feel cold. The flow side pipes feel warm, even in the house. So there is some movement but not circulation. I presume this is the hot water expanding. So far I think the NRV...

Our old system was a Stanley. I kind of miss it. The kitchen is a lot less dusty though. Doing the wood processing used to be fun. It's become increasingly frustrating as we've realised the inefficiencies in our system. Spending an hour a day keeping the furnace topped up is 7 hours a week - a...

P3 UPS 25-55 It's on speed III - It says that's 85 (oops, not 83) on the data plate. I'm sure that's not the actual value, but it's indicative of how much more efficient the Wilo is. I'm surprised it would make such a difference. The original heating system in the house was a solid fuel stove...

My local plumbers merchant didn't have a 28mm NRV. So that decided it for me - I'll skip it for now and monitor for any issues. Just got everything back together and tested the flow: 1.0 m³/h with both pumps running (83w & 46w). 0.8 m³/h with just the Wilo running (57w). The NRV was...

There's some "gritty" play, but it jams easily. I don't know if it was open, closed or somewhere in between in either of the pictures, sorry. Should I make a new post to ask people with gravity experience if I need to replace it?

Yup. Points the right way. System worked for 10+ years. The system didn't have the LPG boiler when they commissioned the biomass boiler. The main vent is the F&E in the house. There's a bottle valve on the heat store tank. My guess is that it relies on the spring pressure to be strong enough...

It's cost over £500 in LPG so far! I hope there isn't another one buried somewhere.

I think it's a normal non-return valve. A diaphragm and a spring?

I've found the problem! Timing the flow from the mid-point in the cellar was partially useful (it confirmed a restriction) but it wasn't clear where it was. So I made pairs of valves with a drain in between so I could check each quarter separately. This showed that the restriction was between...

Indeed! I'm not sure how to do this? There won't be any scale. We don't have any significant dissolved minerals in our water. Removed pipes and fittings often show a very thin black coating of something that wipes off, but it doesn't build up. I can only imagine something has got into the...

I opened/closed various valves to test the flow through the 4 options from the F&E to the drain taps in the cellar: F&E to flow pipe to cellar. F&E to return pipe to cellar. F&E to flow pipe to heat store to cellar. F&E to return pipe to heat store to cellar. The two direct to cellar were...