Recent content by Ragnar_AT

I‘d argue if the cable takes the same route, serves the same load and is connected to the same MCB as the old one, it’s a repair/like for like replacement rather than a new circuit. Besides, you clearly aren‘t adding a circuit, the MCBs in your CU stay exactly the same. That means it’s not a...

As far as I know, RCDs covering multiple circuits are frowned upon by many electricians but still perfectly compliant even in a new build.

Heatshrink is definitely an acceptable repair, tape is debatable but will work.

My parents had a whole medical office fitted out with 12 V halogen lights in 1987, three 400 VA transformers. All the light switches are on the secondary side, no fuses anywhere to be seen. The choc blocks between the 2.5 cables from the transformer and the leads on the lights kept melting and...

This is also one of the rare occasions where neon screwdrivers come in handy. Touch the screwdriver to both terminals with the switch on and off. The one that lights up the screwdriver when the switch is on is the switched live.

Looks like the panel is designed for continental back boxes with 60 mm fixing centres and 71 mm gang spacing. The bracket shown above should work though.

I usually twist the wires in line. It’s a bit difficult to explain but I‘ll try. I hold both wires in front of me, one coming from the left and the other from the right so the stripped bits overlap. Then I twist the wires around each other. The result is usually thinner than the original...

Would a TN-S earth be the same size as the L and N? If not I‘d say it has to be TN-C-S considering how similar the impedance is.

You twist the wires to keep them together while soldering, that’s it.

Continental hobs are usually set up for two phases and have two neutrals in a single ferrule. If you‘re in the Netherlands you split the neutrals, if you only have 1 phase you connect the two lives together. If the hob is supplied without a lead it comes with jumpers in the terminal box that do...

A mixed box with short pieces is probably the best bet. Shrink ratio of the cheapest stuff is usually 2:1 so if the entire lead is 5 mm you can use 8 mm tubing, 10 mm would probably just about work too. You‘ll also need a soldering iron. Unless you want to get deeper into electronics I‘d...

That’s SELV (extra-low voltage), which makes repairs easier. I‘d get some quality electronics solder with flux core (I like the Stannol stuff, it behaves almost exactly as the old lead-based stuff) and two sizes of heatshrink tubing, one for each individual core. Cut the cable at the break, slip...

These lights are all over the continent, 2x36 W/1200 mm tubes.

One scenario I could imagine: consumer unit relocation using a box with DIN rail connectors where the earth connectors are bonded to the DIN rail. In that case you could theoretically run singles from the new CU location to the old for all the L and N conductors but only one 10 mm2 CPC. Would...

I think I know the type you’re talking about but haven‘t seen it in a long time.