Recent content by richards1978

Thanks - that was my worry on the compression fittings. The shower unit is chased into a wall, so access will be Really good advice on the wrapping too. I didn't think about how the wrapping also allows the pipe to move slightly as it expands.

I think you are right, i'm pretty sure it's not moving anymore. I might just cosmetically repair it, so it doesn't stand out as much. Seems these blocks have almost no tensile or shear strength and are only good under compression. Even laying the blocks in a brick bond seems almost decorative...

This guy really know his stuff - brilliant video.

Hi all, Is crack stitching in the mortar bed above and below thermalite blocks possible/advisable? I have a crack in my garage wall above where someone at some point core drilled a big hole for a waste pipe (about 120mm in size). It's goes up about 4 rows of thermalite and is stable and hasn't...

Hi everyone, Short version: How should 15mm copper pipe runs be connected to a 1/2 bsp port on a concealed/buried shower body? Long version: When removing the old tiles from our bathroom with the plan to give everything a refresh with some new tiles, I managed to uncover the buried pipework...

Thanks for the advice everyone - think I'm going to speak to rpofer to fit a fake tile vent. Although, I've now uncovered another issie in the bathroom when I was removing tiles, that I will poat about in the plumbing section.

Unfortunately not; it's a hip roof. At the bathroom floor level, the bathroom backs onto a small loft in the garage roof along the main external wall, and the other external wall is mostly window, so it's not even possible to get a wall vent fitted inside the bathroom itself.

I think you've confirmed what I was afraid of. Fitting a roof tile vent isn't what I really wanted to do, but it looks like that is only way. It looks fairly easy on YouTube, once you're on the roof. It's the getting oj the roof part I' worried about.

Hi all, Short-version: Can anyone recommend a vent to use for properly terminating a 4" extractor fan hose into a soffit board, and how to stop the vented air re-entering the loft via the existing linear vents? Long-version: After the in-line fan failed on our bathroom extractor fan, I went up...

Hi all, We've just finished stripping the paint from the staircase in our house and it's uncovered what looks like a type of heart pine underneath. Rsther than repaint it, I'd deally like to clear coat it and keep the natural wood colour. However after stripping the wood, the finish om thr...

Hi everyone, I recently removed the boarding from underneath our staircase as it was starting to sag. The reasons seems to be that most of the small glue blocks have detached from the underside of the stairs, together with some larger triangles that acted like a "spine" down the middle of the...

There feed to the garage ends in a fuse box that has a single 30mA rcd covering the 2 sockets and a lighting circuit (and a few blanks). So although the swa running from the house to the garage doesn't have it's own rcd, I think everything in the garage is protected by a local rcd.

There's a 100mA Type-S (time delay?) RCD in a small box with the main isolation switch right next to the electric meter in the outside meter box, with a big chunky SWA cable running into the house and under the floors for a few metres straight to the consumer unit under the stairs. The main...

I was thinking this originally, but when I ran it through my head in terms of what would happen under a fault, I was worried this could leave me stranded in a dark shed without an easy way of restoring power. Ideally, I'd just want a minimally protected SWA cable (not sure what protection...

Thanks all - it sounds like my plan is definitely possible, so I will reach out to someone and see which approach they recommend.