Don't worry I will be very careful when I am in the CU. Honestly, I don't need that kind of shock.
So I'll just check the neg going into the back of the fuse thingy to make sure it is nice and secure. If that is ok can I purchase a tester to check line continuity. I used one of these when I...
Right, I tested for resistance and got a tone so that's a good thing at least,.....assume that means that the element is not burnt.
Do wires ever just work themselves loose behind a sealed CU? It just seems odd that with no moving or decorating the Neutral should just fall out...
I'm happy to do it myself, just gonna wait until it's light....so if I kill the main breaker and don't touch the grid wires (tails)....I shouldn't fry?
This is excellent help!!
So regardless of whether the element is burned or not I should still see 240v on all the terminals up to the element?
Can you have a look at this picture and tell me where to test for resistance?
If the immersion had actually burnt out all together would this break the circuit? So when I am testing across L&N in this scenario would I see the voltage drop? and on either side L or N it would show the right reading?
Interestingly, as you can see I have bypassed the switch with that block. When I take a reading (just replaced the battery) with the multimeter, I get 26v with just the positive test lead, when I use the neg test lead the voltage drops off all together.
First things first.......here's the pics.
Secondly, from what I can determine, the supply side (before the switch) is directly from the MCB, then the output (don't know the right names sorry) goes up to the loft, through a fused swtch, then to the immersion.