Recent content by SJRSJR

Ah, superbly explained, thank you. So something like this, plus box https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/WKSG20SE.html As I understand it, only required at one end because the inner earth will be used?

Thanks. I’m beginning to think it’s a job for the electrician as I’m not clear on how I would deal with earthing the armour. One end would terminate in an FCU on the T&G ceiling of the shed (the previous owner called it a summerhouse), the other end would join to a junction box inside under...

As far as I know the original cable came direct from the CU, would that make a difference? How much difference does it make having the FCU in the house rather than in the shed? If you wanted to isolate or work on any of the sockets or switches you would just switch off the FCU. Anything...

Thanks for the replies. The load will be three low voltage lights plus the socket in the garage. It doesn't have anything plugged in there permanently, a pressure washer is the the heaviest load that might get plugged in. If that's too much, it could just as easily run from the house. So is...

Run from the house 3m. From shed to garage and an outside light another 4m. Electrician was fine with me running the cable, there’s a lot going on and he comes in when things become certifiable. 1.5 mm was deemed okay because, if I recall correctly, it had a higher capacity that would...

So in tacking the job in my other post, I’m wondering if I could potentially solve another problem. The garden shed, garage and outdoor light no longer work and the faulty cable was taken out of the CU. New 1.5mm armoured cable has already been run from the shed to the house but to get it to...

Thanks. I could also try to enclose it in plastic trunking but it’d be a lot easier to just lay plasterboard over it.

Thanks. It’s a deep void so I was going to put 200mm on top of 100mm sound insulation. (I’ve since read that it was a waste of time when others did it) When you say ‘better than that’ do you mean better than just having it under the insulation?

Having lifted more board, there are 2.5mm cables, for the bedroom sockets and the kitchen sockets (two separate circuits). No cooker cable, it’s gas. Having searched a few posts, someone proposed laying plasterboard over their cable (which is already lying on the plasterboard), thereby...

Thank you all. Great advice, much appreciated.

Murdochcat - the kitchen will be renovated next year. I have a rough idea so I planned to put cable in position but the layout may change so I don’t want to start fitting them now. EFLImpudence - It is 6A and the cable is solely for the kitchen lights, the other downstairs lights are on a...

Hello I want to put some rolls of insulation in the ceiling void between the kitchen and the bedroom above, primarily to dampen the clatter in the kitchen. The lighting cable is currently lying loose. What is the best way to ensure the cable won’t overheat. At some point the kitchen will...

Thanks. It’s a flat surface. Maybe because it was cheap, although it was the only one that had the right diameter. I’ve left it loose for now, it’s showing more sign of returning into position than when tight.

Hello I’ve just had to fit a replacement flush valve on a toilet with a lever handle. Previously it had a mechanical arm but this is a dual flush valve with a cable. When I hand tighten the inside nut towards the handle, it’s too tight to flush, when I loosen it, it wobbles. Either way...

Ah yes, single post, just like the one earlier on in the thread. I’ll check before replying next time. But since I’m here, the TG4 22mm is pretty solid stuff. It’s expensive but worth considering as an alternative to chipboard overlaid with backerboard. Plus you don’t have to support the joins.