Recent content by SYS49152

"which itself is attached to a sensor on the side of the cylinder" The black thing which is just visible in the insulation cutout.

It is attached to the thin coiled wire which itself is attached to a sensor on the side of the cylinder. I think it's to do with overheating protection <shrug>.

Just had to go take another look and I think you're right. I never noticed that before and it's been installed for over 20 years.

Thanks, that's what I was thinking but was just wondering if there was something else that I might be overlooking. Which iron socket are you referring to?

I had a new 18L EV for my heating system fitted today. It came with a 1.5 bar pre-charge and that's how it was fitted. I forgot to suggest to the plumber that it be reduced to about 1 bar before fitting. The EV is mounted with the water feed at the top and nitrogen at the bottom. I am seeing the...

Yeah it's for my sealed heating system. So just to clarify, it's ok to use the 6 bar vessel here in place of the 3 bar one?

Thanks for the reply. I wasn't sure if 6 bar max pressure meant the vessel would be more difficult to fill compared to 3 bar. Maybe I'm misunderstanding the concept.

My current vessel has a max operating pressure of 3 bar. It needs replacing and I bought one with a max pressure of 6 bar. Can it be used in place or does it need to be like for like? Both are 18L

Thanks to both of you for your advice. I will do just that @foxhole and thanks for the pic @Bouy (y)

Could anyone advise me on the best way to tackle a rotting garage door post? Unfortunately water running down my driveway gathers easily at this point as it is a low area. I've no idea how best to tackle this as the small area would need protecting from both rain and surface run off water. Any...

Thank you all for your replies. I only briefly pressed the valve and saw water come out so I released it immediately. From what has been said above, I have to assume that because my pressure reading is only varying by about 0.5 bar between hot and cold, my vessel could be OK? Should I be...

I have a question about the installation of my expansion vessel. I pressed the valve on it yesterday and got some water from it. I'm guessing it needs replacing. I was looking at the existing installation and was wondering if it is possible to install them "upside-down"? The water feed to mine...

Oh, is there any specific reason for that or is it just convention? The current installation is how my heating system was installed when the house was built just over 20 years ago, so I just assumed it was correct. BTW where can I get the fill loop that you posted?

Thank you to everyone who has posted help and suggestions above. I replaced the isolation valve today on the mains water side of the fill loop. I've attached 2 pics. Now I realised why I had another flexi-isolation valve attached to the heating side too. The one-way valve is leaking "backwards"...

I will do. As this is on the main water feed to the attic tank also (via a ball cock), I assume when I turn off the main supply downstairs, the water from the feed to the attic will need to be drained off? Or will it ?