Recent content by tall_tone

You could try Bona Prime Natural? This is a sample I did on a floor a while back. Prime White on the left and Prime Natural on the right. Nothing in the middle.

If you haven't solved the problem yet, one of these may work. Bona Power Scrubber

This is the stuff I use. Clean the floor first because you can seal in dirt and make things worse, but it should do the trick. http://www.bona.com/en-GB/United-Kingdom/BonaSystem1/Floor-care/Finished-floors/Bona-Freshen-Up/ Looks like they have a distributor in Ireland as well. Cheers

I think WYL and Will 2000 missed the point. As a maintenance oil, all the ones you mentioned will do the job very well. This is not the time to be putting down a full HardWax Oil. TT

Err http://www.saicos.de/fileadmin/bilder/technische_merkblaetter/technische_merkblaetter_EN/03TDS_HardwaxOilsGB_08_10.pdf 435grams per litre is a lot lower!!!!!! But to work it out the same way as Treatex. A litre of Hardwax weighs between 890 and 920 grams according to their specific...

Treatex HWO data sheet. Look at point 15. VOC 48.63% http://www.treatex.co.uk/PDFs/Treatex%20Hardwax%20Oil%20Traditional%20Clear%20Matt%201100.pdf Bona Lacquer data sheet. Point 15 VOC 52g/litre which is very roughly 5%...

Your best bet would be a retail friendly trade outlet as the retail products from Ronseal and Dulux are not a patch on trade products. They are also very expensive. Try this link to find a distributor. Most of these will stock a range. Bona is my preferred lacquer, Loba from Lecol is not bad...

At a guess it could be Merbau blocks, check to see if there are little flecks in the wood structure. A water based lacquer will give you slightly less colouration and closer to your before picture than a HardWax Oil, a bourneseal (if you can find a solvent based one) will give a slightly more...

Hi You could post a picture and we will have a go at guessing the species! Your only other options to HardWax Oil would be a coloured oil or a lacquer. Speak to the manufacturers and get some free samples. Regardless of which other route you go, the Osmo would have to be removed. TT

Hi Your links don't seem to work but I have found the product anyway. The product you have bought is already lacquered, and in a domestic house that should be enough to last for 5 -10 years unless it has been scratched or damaged during installation. It would seem a bit of a waste to sand...

Hi I have known him for many years now and he just does wood installations and sanding/sealing. His website is www.dfloor.co.uk and his name is Damien. He generally works the Slough / Windsor / Maidenhead area. Hope this helps. Tony

I have a floor fitting friend based in Slough who might be interested. Send me a PM and I will send his website details back. TT

Alternatively. If the floor is level (enough) DPM with a liquid Epoxy DPM product, then glue with a modern Silaine adhesive directly to the DPM. No need to buy Ply or chipboard and you keep the overall height down.

I agree completely with Crazydaze. The chipboard, regardless of how strong it looks is only as strong as the glue that bonds it together. Your wood floor and the glue to bond it down is much stronger than the chipboard and if the wood moves it will rip chunks out of it. Spend the money...

Clean the floor with a specialist floor cleaner, key the surface with a sanding screen, then you can apply a new coat of lacquer across the whole floor. A buffing machine will make the first 2 parts easier. You can only do this if you are not back to bare wood, if you are you will end up with...