Recent content by terryplumb

Is the leak only where the brass part screws into the chrome valve body ? If so ,is the brass part fully tightened up ? It should be fairly easy to make that joint watertight, if you are relatively confident on working on the plumbing.

Yes it is. That doesn't look like a new pan and cistern. What exactly were you doing ,just fitting new float valve and siphon ?

Why not take the cistern to a decent plumbers merchant who can supply one that fits. A flush valve is usually operated by a flush button ,but you can get lever operated ones. A siphon is what you have. Is the WC close coupled ,or is there a flush pipe ?

Buy a flush valve ,or a smaller siphon.

Can't say I have ever used prestex tap con washers,but they look the same as any others.

And you need to remove all traces of the old washer so the fitting is nice and clean before fitting the new washer.

That's a 1/2 inch, fibre ,tap connector washer.

You should take the original float valve to a decent plumbers merchant and source a new one with a suitable length tail,and forget the faffing about with washers. Also take the seal from the isolation valve ,and get a suitable replacement.

Correct ,and believe it or not 1/2 inch BSP thread is nowhere near 1/2 inch in diameter ( it's nearer 3/4 of an inch) !!

The pipe size is irrelevant, only the thread of the float valve and the isolation valve needs to be the same.

The thread of the valve tail in your picture looks like 1/2inch BSP to me. The 15mm measurement in the pdf drawing would appear to be nonsense, having never seen a float valve thread with a 15mm diameter, as it appears to depict.

Your measurement of the threaded tail doesn't include the thickness of the cistern or the seal inside the cistern. You will very likely find that your new valve will fit without needing to cut it at all. There will be a seal between the isolation valve and the threaded tail of the valve,and you...

Just fit a complete new float valve.

Close every other rads TRV,don't touch their lock shield valves,run heating and see if the non working rad now heats up.

As above ,you will likely need to extend the pipework. A TRV with a union fitting ,rather than the compression fitting yours has, may allow you to fit it without amending pipework.