Recent content by terryplumb

Are you certain that you are checking the actual PRV and condensate pipework ,show us pictures of those 2 pipes. Something is amiss here ,if you are losing 0.5 bar pressure continually, hourly ,water has to be going somewhere .

If you are losing pressure when the boiler isn't being used ,and nothing is coming out the boiler,it's condensate pipe,or the PRV's discharge pipe, that's indicative of a leak on the system. Is there any heating pipework buried in concrete flooring ,or a void under the ground floor?

Do you lose pressure when the boiler is cold ( not been used for a few hours )and not in use at all for domestic hot water or central heating ?

No. Old switch L2 and L3 = L1 and L2 on the new.

L1 on your old switch= com on the new.

The short answer is Yes ,you can .

There would be a marginal increase,most type 2 double panel BTU is less than 6000.

Is the wall behind the cabinet plasterboard,or solid brick plastered over ? I would be inclined to chase out the wall and bring pipework in through the back of the cabinet.

No.

Removal is required,and take to a plumbers merchant to match ,there are many versions. Also, replace both hot and cold valves.

Yes. Allowing air into the system using the higher radiators bleed valves breaks the vacuum.

Correct ,it's the vacuum that holds the water from continually flowing.

You don't need to do anything regarding the cylinder or anything associated with it.

Don't touch any other radiator. Use the air bleed valve on the radiator in question to reduce pressure a little before draining that rad. Is the cylinder you refer to an unvented cylinder ?

You need to fit a new lock shield ,which is possible to do without fully draining the system. Close the other valve and drain the rad,after a while the water should cease to flow from the valve,and you can quickly swap the valve for a new one.