Recent content by terryplumb

If you connect the trap to the basin ,but not to the waste pipework,put a bucket below the trap outlet,does water run thru and basin empties ?

Pictures of the set up under the basin may be useful ,together with pics of the old and new traps.

Your reducer appears to be a push fit type ,although your picture isn't clear. You need a solvent weld reducer and coupler ,as madrab advised earlier.

Show us pictures of what you have. The reducer goes into a 40mm coupler and the 40mm pipe goes into the other end of the coupler. All solvent welded. The smaller pipe goes directly into the couplers 32mm end. Is that what you are doing ?

2 inch is what you need. This is the thread size not the diameter.

Quite possibly

Any radiator that has a fair bit of trapped air in it can. As heating is in use, the heated water expands and the pressure in a sealed system increases. As the air is compressible it accommodates the expansion( that is the usual job of the EV).

Did the water level previously rise to a much higher level ,and now it suddenly doesn't ? If so replace the float valve with a new one.

I assume you were not using the central heating system during the 6 weeks the rad was removed ? If so, it would appear that the removed radiator was originally full of air and acting as an EV (expansion vessel). Your EV may just need recharging and may not need replacing.

When system is cold where is the water level up to in the f&e cistern ? It only needs to be a few inches deep. The system sounds like it's over pumping ,possibly due to a restriction in the pipework. Show us pictures of all pipework around the pump and hot water cylinder.

Yes. Pipe clips would retain the positions. Saddle clips would be my preferred option.

If you can't re set the breaker with the wiring as it is in your picture ,there is either a fault elsewhere or with the wiring connections in your picture. What type of breaker is it ,MCB,RCBO or RCD ?

It's certainly doable to use angled valves ,but you need to be very accurate in positioning the pipework. If your not confident ,use the elbow and short vertical stub of pipe. If the pipes are copper , buried in the wall cover them with duct tape before plastering/ cementing over.

Unvented cylinders and their associated parts should be serviced annually . Only plumbers that are G3 certified can do this. I suggest you engage one. Do you know how often services have been done over the 20 years ?

Is the spindle a permanent part of the radiator ? If so the part that appears to be fixed to the wall may just be a cover that unscrews off,revealing whatever base is screwed to the wall and how it connects to the spindle,if that makes sense ?