Recent content by thebadger7

Yes I was thinking along the same lines. It's all treated with Osmo worktop oil, which is excellent, but I think maybe makes a less good seal with the silicone

Hi all Any advice on best way to seal this oak upstand with worktop? Did it previously with silicone, but got black mould under the silicone within a year. There's hardly any gap at the bit behind tap that gets most water. Is the idea to just fill the gap with the silicone, or to bond to both...

Why would the vents have to be installed on the ground floor? House is three stories, so I'd assumed it would be a vent at each level

Thanks, here you go. Chimney having some work done - pots will all have cowls on, flaunching etc. Old kitchen one side, clear gable the other. There's a line of thinking that it's better to vent externally as outside air has a lot less moisture than inside warm air, which may well then...

Hi all I'm looking at add exterior vents into unused chimney flues, as chimneys are on gable ends. 3 floors = 3 flues. I've read it's better to do externally, as interior air hols more moisture and you don't lose heat doing it externally. Not really sure best way of doing this. Is is just a...

It's just an inspection chamber for the foul waste drain before it leaves my land - my responsibility. It's an old Victorian trap - can get blocked from time to time. Previously had been buried, so have kept open for future access. About 80cm deep.

The 900x600 are £200-300 which is a lot for something that's in the corner of the garden, and will never have any traffic over it. Maybe a couple of concrete slabs would be a better option

For what reason? Visually, or strength?

Hi all I have a large 900x600cm inspection chamber that I need to get a cover for. It's in the garden so no heavy loads. 900x600 covers are very expensive - is there any good reason not to use two 600x450 covers next to eachother? Thanks

Thanks for reply. can flexible ducting flex in this way- I thought it could be used around corners but maintained the circular profile (if that makes sense)

Hi all In process of installing a cooker hood and there is a vertical stud right in the centre line. I have around 100mm either side of the stud which is not enough for the 125mm hole I was going to make for ducting. Apart from drilling through stud (which is not ideal as this is what hood is...

With a wood primer?

Thanks all. So I went with ply, cut to span three studs. I then attached the hood to the ply. Seems pretty secure, only concern is the steam from cooking hitting the ply. I suppose I could chase it into plasterboard, but you can't see it behind hood

Don't think corfix would work anyway as its more than 45mm to brick even if I could get nicely through the foil insulation

Thanks all - insulation clogs up drill bit to the point which it stops being effective and can barely get it out, not to mention breaking the vapour barrier