Recent content by timmel

When it rained hard, water wiuld literally drip from the right-hand hole at a steady rate of approx 1 drip every 5 seconds so there was definitely water coming through the holes. This seems like a lot of water to be in the cavity but guessing this could be normal for a highly exposed westerly...

That's a fair point, i'm using the term 'cavity closer' a bit loosely. It looks like it's some kind of DPM rigid felt-type material curved between the outside of the inside blocks and the inside of the outside bricks. I believe the moisture is getting in in the first place because the wall is...

Looking for thoughts and opinions on this please. Around a year ago I had a venetian blind fitted on my landing window which is on an exposed side of the house. The blind was fitted in Spring time and that Autumn I noticed that a leak developed at the two points where the blind was screwed into...

I have to disagree I'm afraid... In theory they are point loads, but multiple point loads, which is not much different to cross battening, which also creates multiple point loads where the battens cross. Cross battening will strengthen the joists in terms of stiffness but will still add...

Sorry to raise an old thread but did anyone follow through on trying these loft legs or has everyone decided to cross batten?

I've also just seen these legs in the new catalogue and thought they may be spot on for the job. I've been put off the battening approach purely on the basis of weight, but admittedly that was on the assumptions of needing large timbers to get the required height. I like the suggestion of...

Will check the MCB rating when I get home, thinks it's 32A. The house is a 1960s dormer style semi (it was never a bungalow - was constructed as a two storey house) so two sockets in all of the upstairs is pretty stingy! The CU is about 12 years old.

Thanks for the replies so far. Maybe extending the ring main is the best all round solution. Is this generally acceptable with 2.5mm2 cable or is it better to 'beef this up' to be on the safe side? In reality, 13A for each of the bedrooms would be more than enough (we never use elec heaters...

I currently have just two sockets in the upstairs of my house - one in each of the two bedrooms, located back to back on the partition wall. I'm looking to add more sockets as it's inconvenient as it currently is. Both sockets are currently feeding a spur to two downstairs sockets (one...

Any further thoughts on this issue or do others agree that it is likely to be motorised valves/microswitch problem or just terrible wiring from the installer of the cylinder stat?

Any air source or ground source system will consume electricity all year round when the system is switched on. The reason these systems are appealing is because of their high Coefficient of Performenace (CoP), which can typically be around 3.0 (i.e. 300% efficient). That means 3 units of heat...

Thanks Huge Leak (sorry, I mean Hugh Jaleak!). I am hoping that the cyclinder stat was just wired by a numpty and is therefore shutting off the whole boiler when the cylinder is full, rather than just the hot water valve. Failing that, sounds as though it could eb the microswitch that is...

Perhaps the problem could be whatever sends the control signal to the motorised valves then? As when the hot water cylinder is being heated, the heating system operates as it should do. The only problem is when the water cylinder no longer requires heat. At this point, the radiators go off.

Not sure from memory and I'm not back home until Friday evening. What have I to look out for then with these? Is there a tell-tale sign if these are faulty? Is this the likely fault in your opinion?

I'm not sure, where would the motorised valves be? I think the circulating pump is still going but it seems as though the boiler stops firing as soon as the hot water cylinder is full.