Recent content by topskins

Personally agree with most of this but, in my view, and having come back to reading this forum, things seems to have got far worse in recent years... There are often personal attacks and "baiting" that have nothing to do with questions being asked. Seemingly inocuous questions go completely...

Thanks for the advice. I'll ask again though, as you didn't respond to the questions: what wiring are *you* referring too, that hasn't already been explained as disconnected, and what specifically is "dodgy" about it? On what basis did you make the assumption that the OP is "clearly going to...

Based on what? Which wiring? The wiring in the picture (already explained as disconnected by the OP) or are you thinking of other examples, if so which?

Putting aside the abuse, what dangerous advice?

[/url] I seldom post here, but I actually did laugh-out loud (rather than LOL) at reading that link and it being a response defending (I assume) the ability to "see the line": ...seems to me more than a few similarities with Mr Softus, to be honest :D .

Thanks all for comments, very helpful :) .

Just to confirm though: there's no point in me getting a specific isolator here , when the DP SFCU, of which I already have one, serves the same purpose?

Thanks for the comments Space cat. Is this required with an SFCU? I know the lighting circuit is fused at 6A anyway, but I was following the manufacturer's (brief) instructions, and they list a fuse (I guess unnecessarily) and a "double-pole isolating switch" - I had assumed that if I'm...

I've read over the helpful FAQs concerning wiring in an extractor fan in a bathroom, but just want to double check my thinking... Currently I have this off my lighting circuit in my bathroom (purple being the switched live): Now...I have a new (inline with ducting) fan that I intend to...

This part sounds very similar to the issue I had below (see last post for the resolution): //www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=105947&start=0&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight= ...I'd try checking your condensate trap and, if it looks OK, disconnecting the "sensor" anyway.

Bah! It was the condensate "sensor" (read as "screw"). Condensate trap was fine, nothing was blocked, but for some reason when the "sensor" is screwed into it together with the earth then there must be some continuity there somewhere or other as it prevents fire-up. I'm assuming it worked in...

Thanks, I guess that seems obvious, but I just wanted to make sure... :D . I think that just leaves me, in terms of things I feel safe checking, having a look at the condensate sensor, and then just assuming an issue with the ignition board as gas4you plumped for above?

Can I just check this approach for checking that my APS is working correctly with the collective knowledge on here? Basically, I just disconnected the APS' Common, Open and Closed wires from the combined APS+Fan connector block that goes to the ignition board and attached a multimeter in...

Follow on question from the above [and apologies in advance for folowing my own posts :D ). Just so I can absolutely rule-out a pressure issue within the combustion chamber, is there an obvious way that an APS can be confirmed working electronically during the start-up sequence without...

As a further update on this... Got up this morning, tried the boiler (which had been switched off overnight) and it fired up first time in response to demand for CH when I artificially turned up the temp on the external thermostat. Ran CH for about 20 minutes, and also DHW for a bath/washing...