Recent content by trojanhawrs

30 minutes rofl. Cast drills easy with a sharp drill and you should be through it in seconds if it's cutting. You'll have work hardened that spot now and it will likely be very difficult to drill. Try a brand new drill roughly the size of the pilot in another spot - slow speed setting and good...

@JohnW2 I would say a C3 is anything which isn't likely to be dangerous at this moment in time, but which an improvement would enhance the safety of or bring up to current standards. You make a good point though because I likely wouldn't code a fixed socket although being off the floor is...

Unsuitable for location with regards IP ratings etc. That could be considered C3 as that reg was no doubt introduced at some point. The only reason I wouldn't code that would be laziness, which I'm not immune to.

Not really imo, there's plenty of hard and fast rules in the regs (max zS values for instance) but equally there's lots of regs where competent persons are encouraged to use their judgement. I'm pretty sure I could find reasons to c2 a loose socket on the floor underneath a washing machine...

Something like these mini grid modules. Get the 3 module faceplate, a dimmer module and mounting kit (2 modules) and retractive switch (1 module). There's a good chance you'll need to fit a deeper backbox though, they recommend a 47mm but you might get away with 35 if you've got one already

Yes, you've sussed it. I would suggest a momentary/spring return switch to basically activate the timer, saves it getting left on.

Seems to me you already have a pretty good understanding on a practical level. Have seen you helping people on a lot of threads with thermostat and programmers, you'd be surprised how many electricians struggle with basic control systems. Most of the rest domestic wise is just knowing what is...

It wouldn't work in its current iteration, but maybe the unit failed and someone has bodged it with the rocker switch poorly. What I would do is order the shelly relay I posted and fit that inside your door opener box. You can remove the PCB if it's in the way. I'd also buy a 3 amp fuse and...

Ah, so you actually already have a wireless fob receiver unit, as you say it hasn't been wired in properly. The taped up wagos hanging outside an enclosure in picture 3 is also extremely ropey. Do you have the fob lying around? I think any 433 mhz fob will do with a minimum of 3 buttons if you...

Unless you'll be plugging in kettles or portable heaters, just make it a 20a radial

Would need to see some pictures of the door motor and inside the rocker switch to work out what's going on, something like that could likely be made to work. Another option would be something like this for app control -...

IMO theres no need to go 500mm deep under a monoblocked driveway, that's hard standing and provides more than adequate protection from damage. Lift the monoblocks where you want to run the armoured cable and dig out some sand, lay, cover and refit. If you're doing a charging post that'll take...

Partially close the isolating valve to the point that fully open cold isn't going all over the shop.

I like the change to metal CU's, just feels more robust and better quality. Don't necessarily think plastic ones were much of a fire hazard though. If your existing CU is on a brick wall fire sealing is almost certainly not required.

Definitely presumptuous, but in an ideal world the grey core has been sleeved blue and the table makes sense.