Recent content by trojanhawrs

I'm sure the EV needs to do some sort of handshake with the charger to bring in the contactor though, so it might not be that straightforward

Yep, the latter. The way you've drawn it the boiler would run constantly. You'd have to adjust boiler wiring to mess that up though!

In a visual sense no, that is not how the black wire would be. It'd follow the diagram line. You shouldn't be touching that at the boiler side anyway though, as mentioned you can wire it up exactly the same as before

Probably just haunched with nothing underneath it? I'd get 8 inch deep edgings, lift the black soldier course and dig out the old edgings. Set up string following the existing path level/5mm below, leaving room to put your soldier course back in + 10mm. Dig out 250x250 trench centred on the...

That's reacting to the room temperature change (load compensation). Weather compensation is attempting to anticipate the demand before the room temperature changes. So in an ideal system it'll always be superior at modulating the boiler before it has to cycle. Most of us do not have ideal...

Take it to an electronics repair specialist?

Ah, my mistake. In that case have you tried black in the common?

I don't see why it would crack, you might be able to crack thin cast by lumping it with a hammer but I wouldn't expect it to crack from a small hole even if the saw bites, but you could turn down the torque to be sure That's nonsense.

You could try reading my previous comment

Believe me it'll fly through that, hardened or no.

It's confusing the way you're writing this as if it's one switch - I'm assuming from your description this is a 2 gang 2 way faceplate. If the problem you're having is with the right side switch, try swapping the 2 black cores. If the left side switch is working correctly then don't touch it...

Possibly, might mean you're sort of quenching the metal. I drill a lot of stainless at work and never use water or cutting fluid, you just need to keep an eye on it because when it stops cutting its heating and you'll never get through it. Those carbide hole saws are the tits though, drilled...

30 minutes rofl. Cast drills easy with a sharp drill and you should be through it in seconds if it's cutting. You'll have work hardened that spot now and it will likely be very difficult to drill. Try a brand new drill roughly the size of the pilot in another spot - slow speed setting and good...

@JohnW2 I would say a C3 is anything which isn't likely to be dangerous at this moment in time, but which an improvement would enhance the safety of or bring up to current standards. You make a good point though because I likely wouldn't code a fixed socket although being off the floor is...

Unsuitable for location with regards IP ratings etc. That could be considered C3 as that reg was no doubt introduced at some point. The only reason I wouldn't code that would be laziness, which I'm not immune to.