Recent content by typonaut

Hard to move on that one when any enforcement authority is one and the same as the freeholder/manager. That's why I say the only way foward is legal…

I think it is closee to impossible, because of the design of the block. I have already blocked all the obvious entry points, but the design is a wooden floor suspended over concrete (where there's a void between the two layers). So, you'd have to rip up all the wooden floors to find the holes in...

“You’re a leaseholder, the mice are in your flat, it’s your problem” I know I should get one of those ambulance chasing lawyers on it, but just don't have the energy for it right now.

I am having an ongoing problem with mice. It seems impossible to find and block all the ways that they can get into the flat, since the block seems to be full of runways for them, and must be completely infested (I’m on the seventh floor, so everywhere below must have them too). They don’t...

Actually, well spotted – I had not noticed that all of those were 50mm diameter lightbulbs. However, as others have pointed out, there are plenty of suppliers listing GU10 35mm lightbullbs. The distinction seems to be that they are calling these “MR11 GU10” or “Mini GU10”. Perhaps this is...

I think they are under powered, I am looking at GU10 light bulbs that are in the 300 lumens range - the deck lights I am seeing are more like 50 lumens.

Perhaps we are confusing each other. There are plenty of lighting units that take GU4/GU10 light bulbs, and there are plenty of choices of GU10 (I haven’t bothered looking at GU4) light bulbs at various lumen outputs, colours and colour changing. If you look here you’ll see that Integral have...

Here are sme GU10 LEDs https://www.toolstation.com/search?q=gu10+led I was thinking of using the Integral 2w lamps, they seem to be the lowest power you can get, and 300 lumens. So, I think unlikely to cause heat issues. But, obviously some muppet could stick a much higher rated bulb in there...

There are plenty of GU10 LED lamps, you can even get fixed coloured or colour changing ones if you so choose. It seems that the usual way of fixing coving is glue, but I thought I’d ”belt and braces” it with glue and screws.

Did think of that, but seems quite a lot of work to get a decent finish on the plasterboard edging.

I have not yet got an example fitting in hand, but I think the spacing will be minimal, and you definitely won’t see the spring retainers. If, after testing it, there is too much space behind parts of the bezel, then I could recess the bezel a little – ie have the 45mm cutout, with a concentric...

I want to add coving and and some downlighters to a corridor. However, to do this I need to pad out the coving to make enough space for the lights. Would such a scheme meet building regs/safety? Could potentially use fire rated wood, or use intumescent paint/primer.

After buying the Integral and Fonte units I find the following: The Fonte units will fit the space, but are a little under-powered (lumens). Has no information on space requirements, but does not seem to generate any heat at all. The Integral unit gets quite hot, and requires 50mm space all...

Hmm, I think they are all a bit too big. But the Fonte one does have the least depth requirement, and there is a flush mounting version (that is a bit cheaper)...

The depth is the real problem, but because it is fitting into a curved cornice, the width is also a significant issue. A built-in driver isn't a problem, if the fitting directly takes a 230v feed. But what I am seeing is fittings that have a separate driver (ie the driver takes a 230v feed, and...