That's the answer then. Nobody cares if the plasterboard falls off due to the lack of mech fixings - because the lintel itself is good for an hour.
I'm amazed that an unprotected folded sheet steel lintel can retain its full load bearing capacity in a fire for an hour when a 12 Gauge steel...
I suppose a countersunk self tapper would work - if I can avoid all the perforations! There's plenty of self-drilling screws around but they tend to have hex heads.
I'm still intrigued by the question of how often a mech fixing is used in this kind of application. Having browsed YouTube over a...
Which it is if under a lintel :unsure:
Back to square one. Do dry-lined openings over patio doors, wider windows etc. with catnic style lintels above always have a mechanical fixing into the steel? In which case how's it done?
OK, so it sounds like a mechanical fixing isn't also required. Usually you'd have a vertical sheet each side to support the ends - although this opening is 2.4m wide so they'd not be much help anyway. I guess expanding foam along the top of the upvc frame might catch the end to the window? can't...
I have a shallow bow window reveal with hard plaster on the sides (old house, solid plaster walls) but because of the projection of the bow, the head of the opening (under the lintel) has a sheet of plasterboard. This has been removed during the replacement of the window and now a new sheet of...
Sorry, yes I was thinking about my last run-in with BC where they were insisting on 1 hour protection around steel posts. So all regular lintels covered by a single layer of plasterboard are sorted. Thanks, now the world makes sense again.
Are you saying that all dry lined houses will have Gyproc Fireline Board or equivalent in the top of the window reveals? I know two post Y2K houses that don't. They certainly don't double-up on regular Gyproc either.
From the Catnic website:
Does this mean that all Catnic lintels put in over the last 50 years are going to meet BR if no additional fire protection is applied?
I'm reboarding the head of a window reveal in a 40 year old house and having got the old plasterboard down, there's a Catnic above it...
Thanks for showing some concern here. No worry necessary. I've previously fitted a few bathrooms, kitchens and CH rads without any trauma so I guess I'm just seeing a bit of inflated pricing where others don't. Spending more time searching around for small single zone UFH kits it's pretty clear...
Cost of this stuff is all over the place though. It feels like it's still not mainstream even though UFH is getting quite common. The only supplier that I've found with prices that I could go along with are: https://www.wundatrade.co.uk/
Perhaps someone around here has had experience with them...
Hi ericmark, yes you're absolutely right about the warmup time but this is a fully double glazed room (think big fishtank) with nowhere but in the floor to put heating. The one wall connecting to house is mostly going to go eventually ;-) I did look at trench heating but it seems to be a bit...
Planning to heat a new-build 18sq m extension with wet UFH but without resorting to an off-the-shelf kit. I have several reasons for not wanting to buy a kit - I think they're generally over-priced for what they contain (I've seen standard looking £60 CH pumps thrown in with a couple of...
Thanks. I wondered about using dye to reveal a leak. The pipe is fairly new plastic one and was bridged over with a lintel. The foundation trench has been backfilled so it would need digging out to see the pipe.