Recent content by wayt43

May have been written for external renders (not sure why you would use waterproofer on the top coat indoors) but seems to confirm my suspicions about the bottom coat being the same as mortar. I will get someone in to do the skimming in any case. When I have been demolishing I notice that the...

The property I am doing up has thick S&C render everywhere indoors, up to 20 mm in some places but usually around 10, topped by a plaster skim coat. The S&C seems to me at least partly structural - I say this because some of the walls are quite flimsy hollow clay blocks (only around 80 mm thick)...

The wall will be just under 2 m long and tied at both ends, one of which is a structural wall which surely must have its own footing. I will use a screw in wall starter on that end however, which probably doesn't transfer much load. The other end is a nonstructural wall that I will tooth in. I...

Yes, underneath the screed there is at least 100mm of hard, dense concrete that takes a long time to drill through compared with the screed. What I'm wondering is should I peel off the top 50 mm of screed and replace it with harder concrete, before building the wall on top? Should be quite an...

I'm back, picking this project up again after a bit. I am now thinking about using medium density concrete blocks which are roughly twice as dense as aerated blocks. Because I am a bit OCD I did a bit more checking of the existing subfloor. The top 50 mm or so seems to be a relatively loose...

Better water resistance and being able to hold a coat of tanking slurry (one side will be a wet room), fire proofing, noise proofing, general solidness and so on. Also none of the other partition walls in the building are stud (not that this means anything necessarily), they are either solid...

I am building some internal partition walls inside a bungalow, they will not be supporting anything apart from their own weight and anything hung on to them. I plan to construct these out of brick (preferred) or concrete blocks. The bungalow is a 1970s build and has a solid concrete floor slab...

Looks like timber it is.. I have come up the following design (see sketch). Scale is bit off but you get the idea. Notable points: The existing joists are bolted directly to the top surface of the cement wall. I would rather avoid drilling into this wall. The H-shaped uprights will be thick...

I've just looked into getting some timber mono pitched roof trusses and these would have come to several hundred quid with delivery, but these are a spec suitable for actual houses or extensions. I only need something light weight. Any advice for constructing a simple triangle type truss out of...

Project is to replace a damaged, leaking flat garage roof. The roof consists of a thin fibreglass layer supported by OSB panels, which in turn rest on purlins and joists. The roof doesn't drain properly and the fibreglass has cracked, leading to the underlying OSB rotting. The joists were...