Recent content by webbm00

Still not properly balanced. It can be a time consuming job to get it right. Did you follow the method in the Wiki? Balancing Procedure Yes but will go round and make sure all the rads still have the correct drop If you boiler output is set low (d.0), the pump should be set to two speed...

Also. Looking at the boiler spec it shows a line for the pump at a maximum of 350mbar lift giving 1000l/hr flow. As our boiler is in the loft it has about a 5m lift. Could this be causing the problem as 350mbar is only 3.5m?

more modern TRVs can go either end, look at yours and see if there is an arrow moulded into the body of the valve to indicate direction of flow. It might have arrow heads pointing both ways. Post a photo and someone will recognise it They are Drayton TRV4 which can go on either end. The...

balanced system and is better. Two things of note: 1. Our hall used to always get to 21deg easily and is still struggling at 18deg. Is this due to the very cold weather? There is a 2.7KW double rad which I would have thought was sufficient? 2. More significantly? the flow and return appear to...

u got enough system pressure, the pump auto vent open, and pipes in loft lagged Yes, Yes, and Yes

Thanks. None in stock at the Maplin near us. I'll look for similar elsewhere and balance the rads properly. I did try opening the lockshields on all the other rads a bit and all the rads (including the ones that weren't heating up before) got hotter. So it looks like you've got the right...

I assume N28BJ is the one that is ok but why isn't N19FR ok?

I would suggest an IR thermometer. Maplin have a suitable one at £29.99. (The £17.99 one is not suitable.) why is the £17.99 one not suitable?

If the differential is 11°C,22mm can carry 15kW and 15mm can carry 7kW. If the differential is 20°C the amounts are 12 and 22kW. The reason for the higher capacity at a 20°C differential is that the flow rate is roughly half, so there is less friction. From my calculation the longest section...

Was the heating OK before you built it and added extra radiators?. It was ok, but we basically replaced most of it. The boiler was replaced and moved to the loft, we added 5 rooms and replaced a lot of the old pipework. The system has worked fine since it was put in but we haven't had any...

So I set the target temp to 65 and now the boiler is on for 1 minute as the flow goes from 50 to 70 deg then it switches to pump over run for 3 mins and repeats. My theory is that the pump is not man enough (or blocked/broken) to pump the water round the system quick enough to stop the flow...

The Sedbuk and EST calculators are the same. Is 15.6kW the final result, i.e includes 2kW for hot water? If so then you need 13.6 kW for heating, say 14kW. Yes it includes 2KW for water. A boiler will not condense if the return temperature is above approx 55C So the return temp needs...

Is 12kW just a "try it and see" number or have you worked out your heating requirement? If you haven't worked it out use the EST online boiler calculator 12KW is the lowest it goes to (37KW is max). I found a post on here with a rule of thumb of 1.4KW per rad giving 16.8KW for our house. I...

Also, I thought I would take the cap off of the front of the pump (internal to the boiler) and see if it was moving. I can't take the cap off as there is water under pressure behind it. I thought you should only have a little bit of water behind this cap?

Tried reducing the power of the boiler using d.0 down to 12KW. It made no difference. Still takes 15mins to get the flow up to 80 and switch off the boiler, then 2 minute cycle of boiler on heat flow up to 80 and into anti cycle mode. The difference between flow and return is still 9-10deg...