I'm removing pebbledash from our external walls (1935 semi) and I've hit the point of the old stove / boiler flue. I've included photos below.
My current thinking is to rebuild the wall by cutting and toothing to the 'half brick' depth and using standard brick for the gap (which is exactly one...
I've a couple of horizontal cracks in the pebbledash running from the north west corner running 2-3 meters along the wall. BC said it was probably wall ties so I'll investigate it further once the render is off. These were present when we moved in so not because of any footings we put in.
No...
I've a 1930's house with pebbledash that I'm in the process of removing and at the same time redoing some of the wall ties. Attached is a new kitchen extension, block built.
I'm very confused as what the right / sensible render to use is. There seems to be so many options. My neighbour has used...
Currently we've a double door porch that is about 35 cm deep to the front door. I've no idea why it's that size but I really want to build one with a single door that's bigger and has more use to us than being a draught excluder.
But I need help, I can do the base, the brick line all fine but I...
Update:
So after all the advice here (Thank you) I stepped back and looked at things in a logical way.
There's one air brick letting air in from the East leading to another two West. Then there's three at the North side of the house. In all these cases there's gaps in the sleeper walls...
Yeah I think that's the solution. I've also considered popping a vented brick in there. I'm going to start early on it today so I'll post the results here to later.
Concreting the floor would mean doing the whole ground floor and time, as well as costs prevent me from doing this. I also like...
Thanks Daz. I was looking at it earlier and thought it could be an idea to remove a brick in places under the beam the joists rest on (where there's a full one between the joists)?
I'm insulating a floor today with 100mm pir and the joists are also 100mm. Not a problem, however the joists rest on beams in several places.
I'm worried about cutting off the airflow in the space underneath.
There are holes in places where the brick hits the concrete base but I'm concerned...
Hi guys,
I'm trying to figure out the best way to move water from the area directly in front of my new extension. Water has a natural tendancy to form here as the area is shaded a lot of the day and the level of the garden is lowest here (it's not a massive slope though) and I want more...
Once again I've been subject to the randomness and inconsistency of the LABC - which is fine, it's an education at least but they've told me my kitchen extension roof must go into a soakaway.
The problem is it's the first time I've heard this.
We're essentially replacing what was already...
The walls are up, the roof is on but our single story kitchen extension is taking a hammering from the rain and I don't think rendering is going to take place this year. We're probably looking at about 5 months before it can be done.
The window and door is going in next to secure it but I'm...
We're building a kitchen extension where a steel is going in to open up the old external wall to the extension.
Because winter is coming, is it ok to put the door and window in first? Initially I was thinking of having the steel delivered and in waiting in the extension to be fitted at a later...
I thought that was going to be simple.
I went to two large roofing contractors this morning in search of a vapour control layer for my deck prior to adding the 150mm insulation (pir).
They literally have two types, flame on and flame off and both are felt based...
Thanks for the link.
I had a read through it but decided on Fibreglass as there'll be window cleaners on it monthly and it's not a huge roof. (The creaking noises appear to be seen more often on wider spans)?
The area also has 2 x 800x1500 openings for velux's so reduces the actual grp'd area...